Navy Blue Anglaise

For 7th Sea, but sort of for reenacting, I started a navy blue silk charmeuse robe a l'anglaise with a cream silk twill stomacher and petticoat. The cream silk twill is understated elegance incarnate. It is this gorgeous grayish pearly cream color that looks like it's softly glowing. The charmeuse is really floaty and moves very dramatically. I got a sweet deal on it on ebay from a seller named "happygoodbuy".

The gown is a full 3 yards, and the petticoat too. I was going for something vaguely reminiscent of an 18th century navy uniform. I was also giving thought to attaching epaulets so I can wear all of my naval bling with it.

Next step is to put buttonholes in the stomacher and trim the angle on the front so the stomacher lines up correctly. I mis-cut the angle on the front, but that's not such a huge deal. I may end up ordering more fabric for self trim and facings, but now for some creative scrap arrangement.

Update: 11:35 pm - I dragged out the mock up and cut facings around the neckline so the white from the cotton lining would not show. The was not difficult, but tedious none the less. I re-cut the angle on the front, and with any luck, the stomacher will fit in as it should. I got 15 little pearly buttons.

It's more of a Victorian asthetic, but I think it will work. Inside out it has an unfortunate resemblance to a sailor suit, but having the facings there (right side out) will enable me to keep the dress free of trim. Without the facings, I would likely have used ruching to hide the white poking out from the lining. The character I intend to use the dress for is not exactly the frills and lace type, so the simpler the better.

I actually added sleeve flounced, but I may take them off again. They kind of spoil the whole simplistic understated elegance thing I had going on.

Update 10:33 am Sunday - Trimmed blue gown and hemmed it. Next up is fussy finishing work, and ripping my way through thirteen buttonholes. I want to drive through this project quickly because I have three more to get done before the second week of may! I have my 1812 Sari Ballgown, my mom's sage/olive green silk charmeuse 1812 ballgown and a commission for the museum. Busy busy!

Corset Myths

What do you know about corsets in the Victorian era? How much is our perception of them shaped by the movies we watch? What is your idea of corsets and corseting in the 19th century?

Corsets - Tool of Social Control or Just Underwear?

I'm working on a research project at the museum for a potential lecture on popular misconceptions regarding corsetry in the late 19th century. It feels good to be back in the library. I have a trip to the old alma mater to do some more serious academic research in the near future.

You know the heroine in every adventure movie that takes place in the past ever? The one who 'can't breathe' when she's laced into a corset? She is lame. I have always thought such scenes were cheap ploys aimed at modern audiences designed to get them to sympathize with her and view her as "fiesty" and dynamic.

Was the corset in the Vicorian era in particular a tool for social control? Or was it just underwear? I plan to examine how it is used in popular imagery in our own time, and how it would have been viewed by everyday folks in the 19th century in addition to the criticism laid down by physicians and feminists alike.

It seems everyone has an agenda where the corset is involved. Let's see if we can find the truth somewhere in the middle.

Victorian Ballgown Bodice Trim

I added ruched self-trim to the neckline as well as bullion fringe and tassel trim to the bottom back edge. Some tassel trim around the already lace-edged sleeves makes it even more dramatic than it was before. Next up, buttons and hooks and eyes for the front.

The result of near constant daydreaming

Fabric: Eggplant Purple Silk Taffeta

Patterns:

- Underskirt: 1878 Fantail Skirt TV 225
- Overskirt: 1880 Split Pannier Overskirt TV 328
- Bodice: 1875 Ball Gown Basque Bodice TV 416

I had a sample of the most beautiful deep eggplant purple silk taffeta from Renaissance Fabrics. I have also been inspired by SG's recent foray into Victorian natural form. I have decided that I want to do a natural form ensemble for New Orleans this September. It packs up smaller for air travel than late bustle, as much as I love my lobster tail cage bustle. After much doodling and near constant daydreaming on the subject, I have decided to move forward with it.

Several rows of texturally interesting self trim, beaded tassel braid from the home dec section of the fabric store, and possibly some black venise lace, I intend to dazzle with this project. It also has the added bonus of not requiring a new corset or new underpinnings.

Snow Day Accidental Obsession

More snow, more snow and more snow resulted in this 4 gore 1880s underskirt with three layers of trim. I plan on making a matching overskirt and ballgown bodice for Baltimore this April.

Uncharted territory - 1812!

Teal 1812 Ballgown | Fall/Winter 2010

Fabric: Teal acetate taffeta embroidered with a gold vine pattern

Pattern: Draped by me.

For a fundraiser for a CT fife and drum corps this May. I started with the JP Ryan Anglaise pattern I have used so many times before as well as a peek into Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion. There were some fitting issues. The modified Anglaise pattern I used ended up a little too big over my 1770s stays. My friend, SG over at Penelope's Needle commented that the gathering at the neckline had a a bit of a list to the starboard.

With some help from SG, fitting issues were solved. I ended up gathering the sleeves in rather than pleating them. To cut down on bulk, I decided to not gather the lining. Just pleated ever so slightly at the bust.