Colors in 18th Century Bonnets

I've been busy busy making 18th century headwear for my adventures with Royal Blue Traders.  I've also been on the hunt for decent evidence of colored silk 18th century market bonnets, and met with some success.  So far, from what I have been able to turn up, the brighter colors, which tended toward blues and greens, were popular in the 1780s, and especially popular for younger wearers.

Blue Bonnets

A Lady and Her Children Relieving a Cottager (1781) by William Redmore Bigg, English, 1755 - 1828

Some very interesting hats in general in this painting.

A Market Girl Holding a Mallard Duck (1787) by John Russell, English, 1745-1806

I made my own version with less fullness, and more of bill-shaped brim in some lovely teal silk taffeta I picked up at Affordable Fabrics in Rocky Hill, CT.  That place is a treasure, but it's real hit-or-miss as to what gems you can find hidden away on the flat-fold remnants tables.  You also really need to know what you're looking for, and have a good handle on how to identify fibers, as nothing is labeled.

My version

Green Bonnets

A Girl Gathering Filberts (1782) by William Redmore Bigg

This spring-ey little piece is a very similar shape to the ones I have been making.  I think I need to re-create one from this portrait with that pink ribbon.

Mrs Ogee, satirical print published by Matthew Darly, 1775

This one features an older lady in a more olive green with blue puffed trim and a wider brim shape.

There is an extremely helpful, extensive list of sources a the Buzz at the Hive.  Especially helpful for the American Revolution period.  Now, on to cranking out more hats in time for the season before the baby arrives!

My version

Black Velvet Mini Top Hat

Like most of the fabric covered hats I make, this one was entirely un-planned. I bought the straw frame at a Bakers shoe store, and went to town on it with pieces of an old velvet skirt I inherited. What follows is an explaination of process without the benefit of official millnery terminology.

I cut out two ovals with pinking shears following the general shape of the brim and crown. I left some extra space to cover over the top and bottom of the brim and so the crown pieces would hang down a bit. I then cut a strip to go around the band.

The piece around the brim has a hole cut in the center. Through this hole, I slipped the hat. You might be able to make out the little triangles I cut out of it around where the fabric touches the actual straw. This has the effect of making the fabric lay straight on the frame.

Next, I attached the brim cover with a simple straight stitch around it's edge. I then gathered the rest of the fabric draw string style, and tacked it down on the inside, sewing along where the crown attaches to the brim. The crown cover was relatively simple to attach.

Next the band went on, hiding the ragged edges of the crown and brim covers. This was a little awkward, as I used an invisible stitch, which I'm sure has a very descriptive and practical name. I tried to capture it in the picture in thumb #6. I left the inside un-finished, and attached a plastic comb that came with the hat from Bakers. A few pieces of Black Lady Church Hat trimmings later, and we were in business.

Click on the thumbnails to see larger images - as always.