Sunday, May 26, 2013

Back to you, Nelson

I had cut the facings of the riding habit too narrow, and I ran out of the yellow wool I had. Since the riding habit project is awaiting the arrival of a new yard of dark yellow wool before construction can continue, I turned back to the Nelson coat.  I really wanted to make sure the facings were a single piece so the collar could be popped like the portrait.

I attached the white wool for the facings like a lining. The two layers of blue wool that make up the collar are treated as a single piece. The white wool is then treated essentially as a lining and folded backward.  I mean to tack the actual cotton lining over all of it in the finishing process. In this instance, it seems easier to show than to tell.

 I've been waiting for parts, but I think I can tack the lining in before getting lace and buttons.

 The facings get folded back and buttoned in place eventually.  From portraits, it seems these vary in how wide they are.  Captain Cook's in the 1774 portrait are quite narrow.

Monday, May 13, 2013

IXth Riding Habit Lining and Lace

I got into attaching the lining to the project, and all hell broke loose.  Nothing was laying right, and I had cut the upper part of the lining almost two inches too short.  [Expletive.]  I frantically went through the scrap stash for the project, and hoped I had enough to cut out new lining pieces that were all one piece.  I had to do some creative piecing, and long story short, I am still not happy with it.  I may end up going for the two-piece lining again with a longer top piece. 

Trying to do a lining for the pleated skirting is something I have never had success with.  On longer things like gentlemen's frock coats, you can kind of fudge it, as the length hides the fact that the pleats aren't acting as one layer.  In something shorter like this, it just looks like it rides the short bus to school.  I think I may have to go back and figure out the two piece lining. It makes the pleats look really sharp. 
The collar and facings just didn't lay right.  I came to the conclusion that the interfacing was just too thick.  I am in the process of removing it.  Some of these issues will be resolved when the functioning buttonholes go into the collar and facings, but the lining should not be visible where the collar joins the rest of the coat.  I expect removing the thick canvas interlining will take care of that issue, but We'll find out.  I may have to rig up something where the lining is tacked down by hand around the collar.  That may work out better.  The difference between the weight of the wool and the silk is just problematic.

Adventures in Silver Mylar Lace

 The IXth enlisted lace is a worsted wool with a pair of navy blue pinstripes.  We have miles and miles of it stashed away, but for something like a ladies riding habit, I wanted to go with the officers lace.  I took a look at a few of the rectangles of the enlisted lace to figure out how they were constructed, and determined that it was much easier to show than it was to tell.  Everyone I asked had a slightly different way of doing it, including using some kind of interfacing for the construction process, or anti fray goo.  I didn't want to muck up the expensive silver lace, so I did a little experimentation using it in its original form, un-backed.  It frayed very badly, and looked awful.  Eventually, I figured out doing a quick buttonhole stitch in silk thread on the edges of each strip saved me a lot of headaches, frustration and lace.