tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-51271047748274389502024-03-13T13:43:00.037-04:00Arachne Attirearachnehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01414123825598213136noreply@blogger.comBlogger112125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5127104774827438950.post-37305913590354332902019-01-13T20:10:00.003-05:002019-01-13T20:11:22.911-05:00Pink Silk Gown<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ5cn69nIddr-Y83jBKKm2pi08REFfdMLJ_UqqP7X-Lr4aDWegYZie9cI-rdxVvmyq853ng_dUoN9beIIXvQ-Gdk0UKDiAJ-N_lt-46k-H4lNXYRa648OEYR5E71Cz7Is_9kSlFMZqnRQ/s1600/IMG_5064.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1238" data-original-width="1242" height="318" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ5cn69nIddr-Y83jBKKm2pi08REFfdMLJ_UqqP7X-Lr4aDWegYZie9cI-rdxVvmyq853ng_dUoN9beIIXvQ-Gdk0UKDiAJ-N_lt-46k-H4lNXYRa648OEYR5E71Cz7Is_9kSlFMZqnRQ/s320/IMG_5064.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
I made a new petticoat and stomacher to go with my pink silk taffeta gown. I also styled a half wig to go with it. In my previous wig-wearing adventures, I found that the shape of my head doesn't work so well trying to comb my own hair over the wig to make the hairline look natural.<br />
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I recently cropped my hair at chin length and dyed it red again, so with a ball coming up, I thought it was time to play with wigs again. I ordered a <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0140UGE3W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1">half wig from Amazon</a>, and set to <span style="font-family: inherit;">work using the now sold out book, </span><a href="http://18thcenturyhair.com/" style="caret-color: rgb(17, 17, 17); color: #111111; font-family: inherit;">18th Century Hair & Wig Styling: History & Step-by-Step Techniques by Kendra Van Cleave</a><span style="color: #111111; font-family: inherit;">. All of the curls and "buckles" were purchased at a local wig shop so I could more easily match the color. I got as close as I could. Then, using a piece of PVC pipe, an entire can of hair spray, and an entire </span><span style="color: #111111;">package</span><span style="color: #111111; font-family: inherit;"> and a half of bobby pins, I was able to make some approximation of 18th century hair.</span><br />
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<br />Sarah Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02980045666044299271noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5127104774827438950.post-15095192446871713922018-03-22T22:41:00.001-04:002018-03-22T23:02:58.071-04:00Researching 18th Century Looks: Mezzotints and Genre Paintings<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXwCxbm-IlpwGkfFTC1QbPNGih_s_e-G4MJLTzggJ-vc8RKeWbj43ZVAlQ4pIEASQUQNBCUPepJEVuKhyphenhyphenaP-2h3HLwUUC_reZ-3eNNaEN6VL9hH5rI1T4DM5I1HgZfPLxVnSvnvOEtklY/s1600/enragedmacaroni.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="1119" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXwCxbm-IlpwGkfFTC1QbPNGih_s_e-G4MJLTzggJ-vc8RKeWbj43ZVAlQ4pIEASQUQNBCUPepJEVuKhyphenhyphenaP-2h3HLwUUC_reZ-3eNNaEN6VL9hH5rI1T4DM5I1HgZfPLxVnSvnvOEtklY/s640/enragedmacaroni.jpg" width="465" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.library.yale.edu/walpoleweb/oneitem.asp?imageId=lwlpr03717">The Enraged Macaroni, 1773</a><br />
by Philip Dawe</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">While dressing up in silk gowns and portraying the aristocrat is a ton of fun, most often, reenactment events call for middle, and lower class impressions. While there are a ton of beautiful portraits by European painters to reference for aristocratic European impressions, finding inspiration (and documentation) for more regular folks is quite a challenge.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">All the advice from the reenacting community when researching one's impression says to "reference period images", but it's not always obvious where to look. Portraits in oil on canvas of lords and ladies from England aren't always helpful when portraying a middle or working class person in the American colonies during the Revolutionary War. Museum collections of extant pieces often aren't helpful either, as they usually belonged to the wealthy, (and the European).</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>Some of the Best Places to Look</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">- <a href="http://www.britishmuseum.org/research/collection_online/search.aspx" style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">The British Museum Collections Search</a></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">- <a href="http://images.library.yale.edu/walpoleweb/default.asp" style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">The Yale Lewis Walpole Library Collections Search</a></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">You can use the names of the creators and publishers<b> </b>of popular prints from the period as search terms.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">In no particular order, some of those names include: <a href="http://www.britishmuseum.org/research/collection_online/collection_search_results.aspx?people=126745&peoA=126745-2-60" style="background-position: 0px 0px; border: 0px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; position: relative; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;" title="See all objects">William Doughty</a>, <span style="background-color: white;">Daniel Gardner, </span><span style="background-color: white;">Carington Bowles, </span><span style="background-color: white;">Matthew Darly, </span></span><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">R. Sayer and J. Benne</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">t, </span></span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">John Raphael Smith, </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">James Birchall, </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">James Bretherton, </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">John Boydell, </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">P. Stee, and Philip Dawe.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.800000190734863px;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12px;"><a href="http://images.library.yale.edu/walpoleweb/oneitem.asp?imageId=lwlpr25047">The fruit barrow painted by H. Walton<br />engraved by J.R. Smith.</a></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>Mezzotints</b>: More than you probably wanted to know. </span><span style="color: #262727; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , "verdana";">French</span><span style="color: #262727; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , "verdana";"> </span><em style="color: #262727; font-family: arial, helvetica, verdana; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">manière noire</em><span style="color: #262727; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , "verdana";">; German</span><span style="color: #262727; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , "verdana";"> </span><em style="color: #262727; font-family: arial, helvetica, verdana; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">schabkunst</em><span style="color: #262727; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , "verdana";">)</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">"A</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; letter-spacing: 0.6399999856948853px;"> manner of engraving on copper or steel by scraping or burnishing a roughened surface to produce light and shade." - <a href="https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/mezzotint">Miriam Webster</a></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Period <b>mezzotints</b> are a great source for visual references for everyday folks. They feature satires, scenes of street life, political cartoons, and such. The images were etched backwards into softish metal, and then inked like a stamp. They were used in newspapers, magazines, and what passed for "mass produced" images in the 1770s. <a href="https://www.npg.org.uk/research/programmes/early-history-of-mezzotint.php">The National Portrait Gallery</a> has a lengthy article on the origins, and the specifics if you're interested. </span><br />
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<span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">There is a great article on mezzotint print-making at <a href="https://thedrawingstudiotds.org/art-mezzotint-printmaking/">The Drawing Studio</a>. It details the process of burnishing a copper plate, applying ink, and making a print.</span></span><br />
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<span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Christ Church, one of the colleges at Oxford University in the UK has a special collection of printmaking stuff, and they've got an article on the process here - <a href="http://www.chch.ox.ac.uk/library-and-archives/printmakers-and-publishing-18th-century">Printmakers and Publishing in the 18th Century</a></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Contemporary 21st century artist, Jim Hubbman's article on mezzotint printmaking,</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> </span><a href="http://jimhubbman.calkinsc.com/mezzotint/mezzotint.htm" style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">The Mezzotint Process</a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> I have assembled here a few resources, and search terms that will help a newcomer to the hobby, or the documentation process. A few databases through which I have found several period <b>mezzotint</b> images include:</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJEctwHZqsk9XkxLI-YgWUaEEgnwRfprD4sY28nWIqV0mq9WtPv107FV-QbuP3kfLm8W-2eabM5m7d2rFQoMqlGvsfYnseJMW0drD_uTTID9siCM8xuzI6eCIPbVjoaAl_0DDN6gSZOqo/s1600/mw05850.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="658" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJEctwHZqsk9XkxLI-YgWUaEEgnwRfprD4sY28nWIqV0mq9WtPv107FV-QbuP3kfLm8W-2eabM5m7d2rFQoMqlGvsfYnseJMW0drD_uTTID9siCM8xuzI6eCIPbVjoaAl_0DDN6gSZOqo/s320/mw05850.jpg" width="263" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.800000190734863px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">John Raphael Smith<br />Self Portrait in colors chalk, c. 1807<br />National Portrait Gallery</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">When looking for these<b> mezzotints, </b>helpful search terms include the publishers of popular</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">When searching for these names, click the "advanced search" button, and limit your date range from 1760-1780, or so.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The artists who made the original drawings from which the prints were made include:</span><br />
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<a href="https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/person/mp04154/john-raphael-smith?search=sas&sText=john+raphael+smith" style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">John Raphael Smith</a><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">There is a lengthy article on the function, use, and significance of this uniquely British art form from the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Timeline of Art entitled </span><a href="https://www.blogger.com/" style="background-color: white; font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;"><span id="goog_1461163849"></span>The Printed Image in the West: Mezzotint.</a><br />
<a href="https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/engr/hd_engr.htm" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; border-bottom-color: black; border-bottom-style: solid; border-bottom-width: 1px; color: inherit; font-family: -webkit-standard; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: auto; position: relative; text-align: start; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: auto; word-spacing: 0px;"></a><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">In this article, Elizabeth Barker tells us that Mezzotints circulated widely and were sold cheaply like posters in a variety of sizes (including "royal" 24x19 inches, "large" 18x24 inches, "posture" 14x10, and "small" 6x4) Collectors of these popular images assembled portfolios or albums of leading figures of the day, or displayed "genre" scenes on their walls. Such "furniture prints" might be framed, mounted on stretchers, or passed directly on the walls of people's houses, and public spaces.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifCWaooKjogrlb7084PsQQxZZCalnUy-L_8-0_e2m5ndijJireWxdMHFnN3lzwaqBE1EAs4Ip0yfZg5puvKajwnUadNZwyO78izLRUvIAA7X7H8tx0B66MmCKN2772wA1zUWCaT9wTirQ/s1600/pluckingtheturkey.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="1236" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifCWaooKjogrlb7084PsQQxZZCalnUy-L_8-0_e2m5ndijJireWxdMHFnN3lzwaqBE1EAs4Ip0yfZg5puvKajwnUadNZwyO78izLRUvIAA7X7H8tx0B66MmCKN2772wA1zUWCaT9wTirQ/s640/pluckingtheturkey.jpg" width="513" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.800000190734863px; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.tate.org.uk/art/artworks/walton-plucking-the-turkey-n02870">Plucking the Turkey</a><br />
by Henry Walton, 1776</td></tr>
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<b style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: center;">Genre Painting </b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b style="background-color: white; text-align: center;">- </b><span style="background-color: white; text-align: center;"><span style="color: #313131;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.1599999964237213px;">The term genre painting refers to paintings which depict scenes of everyday life. The painting included here was exhibited in London in 1776, and may have been a coded, pro-British political message regarding the hostilities with the rebellious colonies...</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #313131; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; letter-spacing: 0.1599999964237213px; text-align: center;">British Artists who worked in this style during the 1770s include:</span></div>
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<span style="border-bottom-color: rgb(0 , 114 , 206); border-bottom-style: solid; border-bottom-width: 1px; color: #232526; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; letter-spacing: 0.1599999964237213px;"><a href="http://www.tate.org.uk/artists/george-morland" style="border-bottom-color: rgb(0, 114, 206); border-bottom-style: solid; border-bottom-width: 1px; color: #232526; text-decoration: none;">George Morland</a></span></div>
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<span style="border-bottom-color: rgb(0 , 114 , 206); border-bottom-style: solid; border-bottom-width: 1px; color: #232526; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; letter-spacing: 0.1599999964237213px;"><a href="http://www.tate.org.uk/artists/henry-robert-morland" style="border-bottom-color: rgb(0, 114, 206); border-bottom-style: solid; border-bottom-width: 1px; color: #232526; text-decoration: none;">Henry Robert Morland</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Henry Walton</span></div>
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<a href="http://www.tate.org.uk/artists/francis-wheatley" style="border-bottom-color: rgb(0, 114, 206); border-bottom-style: solid; border-bottom-width: 1px; color: #232526; font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; letter-spacing: 0.1599999964237213px; text-decoration: none;">Francis Wheatley</a><span style="background-color: white; color: #313131; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; letter-spacing: 0.1599999964237213px;">. </span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">As always, consider context. Most of these images are from Europe, and not the North American colonies, and what's suitable for London in 1776 isn't necessarily suitable for Boston, or rural New England in the same year, but there will be certain constants. Mezzotints and genre paintings are definitely not the only sources, but they are some of the best visuals for non-aristocrats from the Revolutionary War period. Runaway ads, probate records, and other print sources are some of the best for specifics of middle and working class women's dress, but don't tend to involve visuals. Happy Researching.</span></div>
Sarah Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02980045666044299271noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5127104774827438950.post-38037179632893950922018-03-08T11:32:00.002-05:002018-03-20T09:22:10.937-04:00White Silk 18th Century Bonnets<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">For sale at <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/523662030/ivory-silk-satin-late-18th-century?ref=shop_home_active_1">etsy.com/shop/arachneattire.com</a></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "great vibes";"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; white-space: pre-wrap;"><b>White</b>: Believe it or not, the (distant) second most common color for silk bonnets after black in the period including, and surrounding the American War for Independence (Revolutionary War).</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;">Examining <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Wives-Slaves-Servant-Girls-Advertisements/dp/1594162522">Don Hagist's </a></span><i style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Wives-Slaves-Servant-Girls-Advertisements/dp/1594162522">Wives, Slaves, and Servant Girls</a></i><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;">, I took a tally. I counted, the word "bonnet" mentioned 100 times int he advertisements. The number made calculating percentages rather simple. Out of those 100 bonnets, 69 were black. Eight more were black with colored linings - white, blue, or red. 77% of the bonnets described in the book were black. The next most common color was white with 12, followed by green with 5, and blue with 4.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "great vibes";"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; white-space: pre-wrap;">The book is a collection of runaway ads from American newspapers from the Revolutionary war years, and is very helpful in determining accurate working class portrayals for the period. It is especially helpful, since a great deal of period imagery of women from the years between 1770 and 1783 come from England, and frequently depict upper class women.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "great vibes";"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; white-space: pre-wrap;">Several of the white articles of headwear were called "bonnets" but were described as being made of linen, or cotton, making me wonder if they are what reenactors now call "caps", or if they were brimmed bonnets. Insight on this is appreciated, if you have any.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "great vibes";"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; white-space: pre-wrap;">In any event, I hope my research is useful to someone.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivavyz8rM0ED3C16A8VpITMojycLioEHmrw1a1N20IH5xdBJtcKRv93mW1ZH5fsNCtC7N1ZdxQP27iHQ6Ek4FAGbUTiXKfvQ9-3DPIHuIBspp8-5B2E-PRxbG0i9ba7Cl9nLHthDEK8ig/s1600/Screen+Shot+2018-03-12+at+10.46.43+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="426" data-original-width="702" height="388" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivavyz8rM0ED3C16A8VpITMojycLioEHmrw1a1N20IH5xdBJtcKRv93mW1ZH5fsNCtC7N1ZdxQP27iHQ6Ek4FAGbUTiXKfvQ9-3DPIHuIBspp8-5B2E-PRxbG0i9ba7Cl9nLHthDEK8ig/s640/Screen+Shot+2018-03-12+at+10.46.43+PM.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<b style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; white-space: pre-wrap;">My tally</b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; white-space: pre-wrap;">:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "great vibes";"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><b>1770</b>: </span></span><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;">Total Mentions of the word "bonnet": 6</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; white-space: pre-wrap;">Black (3), Black with blue lining (1) White (1) Brown (1)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; white-space: pre-wrap;"><b>1771</b>: Total mentions: 7</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; white-space: pre-wrap;">Black (4) Blue (1) Green (1) White (1)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; white-space: pre-wrap;"><b>1773</b>: Total mentions: 10</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; white-space: pre-wrap;">Black (9) Blue (1)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; white-space: pre-wrap;"><b>1774</b>: Total mentions: 9</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; white-space: pre-wrap;">Black (7) White (1) Green (1)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; white-space: pre-wrap;"><b>1775-1776</b>: Total mentions: 36</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; white-space: pre-wrap;">Black (25) Black lined with white (2) Black lined with blue (1) (2) Green (2) Blue (2) White (4)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; white-space: pre-wrap;"><b>1777</b>: Total mentions: 10</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; white-space: pre-wrap;">Black (7) Black with blue lining (1) Black lined with red or "pale red" (2)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; white-space: pre-wrap;"><b>1778-1779</b>: Total mentions: 15</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; white-space: pre-wrap;">Black ( 10) Black with white lining (1) Purple (1) White (2) Brown (1)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; white-space: pre-wrap;"><b>1780-1781</b>: Total Mentions: 11</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; white-space: pre-wrap;">Black (4) White (3) Black with red lining (1) Green (1) Dove Gray (1) "Reddish worsted" (1)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; white-space: pre-wrap;">100 bonnets mentioned.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "great vibes";"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; white-space: pre-wrap;">Black (69) + 8 = 77</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "great vibes";"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; white-space: pre-wrap;"> - Black with blue lining: (2)</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "great vibes";"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; white-space: pre-wrap;"> - Black with white lining: (4)</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "great vibes";"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; white-space: pre-wrap;"> - Black with red lining: (2)</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;">Other Colors: 13 - Green: (5), </span><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;">Blue: (4), </span><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;">Purple (1), </span><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;">Dove Gray (1), </span><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;">"Reddish" (1), </span><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;">Brown (1)</span></span></div>
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<span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">White: (12)</span></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"><i><span style="background-color: transparent; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">White Silk Bonnets</span><span style="background-color: transparent; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (1752-1782)</span></i></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img height="400" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/bwBeGYYpurgXERNjEe-nnYfYNa3BTVDt_EdcQKmwhJywTqHrTq8xFPYBNdV2yiD5itM0lN-y85CI2JDe4QLM8ViPYt5NE6e5TLXzk4xvfeaTznblebEkGDTz4yvSzMACeVy7TH4M" style="border: none; font-size: 14.666666984558105px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; transform: rotate(0rad);" width="321" /></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">C. 1752</span><span style="vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span><a href="https://artuk.org/discover/artworks/catherine-moore-191816"><span style="font-style: italic; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Catherine Moore</span><span style="vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> by Sir Joshua Reynolds</span></a></span></div>
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<span style="vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">English Heritage, Kenwood</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Accession Number: </span><span style="background-color: white; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">88028844</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">And check out that awesome blue lining. Note she wears a white cap under the bonnet.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI5rX14xRFS04MfjPKDjcD2qOStRAdTkY_TxmPVlh88upRulQJBTQGvw112zT0X65Nz7kL1Y2I65Y-wM4BcXeNru_rcX4TPT9sumkCiRDbqi4wMJtW5tMGkrdR1Ec73wNfUnemQBQitek/s1600/Screen+Shot+2018-03-12+at+8.39.56+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: 12.800000190734863px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="231" data-original-width="175" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI5rX14xRFS04MfjPKDjcD2qOStRAdTkY_TxmPVlh88upRulQJBTQGvw112zT0X65Nz7kL1Y2I65Y-wM4BcXeNru_rcX4TPT9sumkCiRDbqi4wMJtW5tMGkrdR1Ec73wNfUnemQBQitek/s400/Screen+Shot+2018-03-12+at+8.39.56+PM.png" width="302" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12px;"><b>1773</b>: <a href="http://images.library.yale.edu/walpoleweb/oneitem.asp?imageId=lwlpr03581">A decoy for the old as well as for the young</a></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdTA2Z2e4hG2zpaLjax2DgwBK-LSRSUZp863t3dt8p1JcsdlLxDspd_hhS46CdR5-q0gagkcDo8TmA_5r6lHsfXu-DlhIZDqtrdE4ike6P3886W6Qr8qI-5pWpqD0ZWzXCJtpdnFcnEjM/s1600/Screen+Shot+2018-03-20+at+9.19.07+AM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="398" data-original-width="318" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdTA2Z2e4hG2zpaLjax2DgwBK-LSRSUZp863t3dt8p1JcsdlLxDspd_hhS46CdR5-q0gagkcDo8TmA_5r6lHsfXu-DlhIZDqtrdE4ike6P3886W6Qr8qI-5pWpqD0ZWzXCJtpdnFcnEjM/s320/Screen+Shot+2018-03-20+at+9.19.07+AM.png" width="255" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><b>1774</b>: <a href="http://search.library.yale.edu/academic_commons?f%5Bdate_sim%5D%5B%5D=14+Octr.+1774.&q=mezzotint&search_field=all_fields">The Invitation.</a></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/T0ovH39mbOpm6NVvUTYJjQ9xLxrRU795KmKa95oiG_Ec1oHhWMVnbrZSSkHyZkg2-J037Lo9o7ltAHf_MJZ7AZe1Rzifu9IN9dOxa5z4XTA49EEbrYPsvyYbevoz7ID-8wEXAVU3" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/T0ovH39mbOpm6NVvUTYJjQ9xLxrRU795KmKa95oiG_Ec1oHhWMVnbrZSSkHyZkg2-J037Lo9o7ltAHf_MJZ7AZe1Rzifu9IN9dOxa5z4XTA49EEbrYPsvyYbevoz7ID-8wEXAVU3" style="background-color: transparent; border: none; transform: rotate(0rad);" width="333" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="text-align: start;"><span style="font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">C. 1770 </span><span style="font-style: italic; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><a href="https://www.mutualart.com/Artwork/Portrait-of-Miss-Theophila-Palmer--1757-/A30DCFF5563B6DDE">Portrait of Miss Theophila Palmer </a>(1757-1848), niece of Sir Joshua Reynolds, half-length, in a white dress and bonnet </span></span><span style="text-align: start;"><span style="vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Attributed to</span><span style="vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> Sir Joshua Reynolds</span></span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZS4-2L80FJcOD287PDZlB8P4hC1zQEiR-xDY0zx_CI39-NOFd6iIw_CR3WbWA3EuZPA9SMWGXguN-uqmtonPhc_TzZDmFy9k7n9IZRV0B48MZ2UTb2bzTox_zLuJ0vPzuJOfug1msbJY/s1600/Screen+Shot+2018-03-12+at+9.15.33+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="483" data-original-width="461" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZS4-2L80FJcOD287PDZlB8P4hC1zQEiR-xDY0zx_CI39-NOFd6iIw_CR3WbWA3EuZPA9SMWGXguN-uqmtonPhc_TzZDmFy9k7n9IZRV0B48MZ2UTb2bzTox_zLuJ0vPzuJOfug1msbJY/s320/Screen+Shot+2018-03-12+at+9.15.33+PM.png" width="305" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>1776</b>: </span><span style="background-position: 0px 0px; border: 0px; color: black; font-size: x-small; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><i><a href="http://www.britishmuseum.org/system_pages/beta_collection_introduction/beta_collection_object_details.aspx?assetId=384860001&objectId=1642328&partId=1" style="background-position: 0px 0px; border: 0px; color: black; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: start; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">A lovely youth and a Charming Maid. Danceing at the Masquerade.</a> </i>A satirical print.</span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img height="400" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jjg8J8L8p8TAl1rw9QCr4AAuV-BL0ihXm426H6Tev_wZsMnh0HE1f4vKPlcO5tJ4N84LJrbbjMxdaaydE0O2e7RET9F_qkMiFiNp5Nv3iDP3W6ue_Pl4OBRbcEWsO-pS4pP0G3lE" style="border: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; transform: rotate(0rad);" width="357" /></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span id="docs-internal-guid-f4efb6ef-0727-e9f2-d7c5-cd2870e35814"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"></span></span><br />
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<span id="docs-internal-guid-f4efb6ef-0727-e9f2-d7c5-cd2870e35814"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><b>1781</b> - <a href="http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/128165.html">The Young Wanton Privateer bringing a Spanish Prize into the Port of Love</a></span><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">.</span></span></span></div>
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<span id="docs-internal-guid-f4efb6ef-0727-e9f2-d7c5-cd2870e35814"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre-wrap;">National Maritime Museum</span></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img height="400" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/WO4jpF9hH7nYeg9qJ4qFshT14HtZsWz0IxaP98D6580tich2mQpQHqsJALSwnozeqbb42YxBfPoBEu6XbK90bJTREtXIsK7-wLgv-eFbM8xjYnZCxLimQRmTqPzVTRnUenWjLhIB" style="border: none; font-size: 11pt; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; transform: rotate(0rad); white-space: pre-wrap;" width="300" /></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span id="docs-internal-guid-f4efb6ef-0729-6520-3fe9-39bec8cf0f50"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"></span></span><br />
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<span id="docs-internal-guid-f4efb6ef-0729-6520-3fe9-39bec8cf0f50"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1781</span><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">: <i><a href="http://images.library.yale.edu/walpoleweb/oneitem.asp?imageid=lwlpr04723">The Bird of Paradise</a></i>, </span><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre-wrap;">Yale’s Lewis Walpole Library</span></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img height="400" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/z5Ozw9X1vN9V0MK_eQ5snR9WANbiyJEVsGMNBT67OAzjQayb14luLoiay3MI2h_W8p75cFKuZVvJcP3UOC_zNxhKXgUMi8UcRqRGZuJLvC_vafvy6XwUdSsAflwddVIa-_bT4xSk" style="border: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; transform: rotate(0rad);" width="344" /></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">C. 1780 </span><a href="https://www.christies.com/lotfinder/Lot/henry-robert-morland-c1719-1797-stealing-the-1948380-details.aspx/?sc_lang=zh-CN"><span style="font-style: italic; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Stealing the Letter</span><span style="vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> by Henry Robert Morland.</span></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Sold to a private collector, Dec. 2000 for over </span><span style="background-color: white; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">GBP 15,275</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-size: x-small; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Henry Robert Morland was most famous for his portrait of George III.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img height="400" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/LTdFELUDW-K3r7bW02dEypJUDvl8b-o_AFBNmvCUkq6ei46eQZqRZT2mYXjOhSLDe9BbpOsNJONDNxhj4Z4l73ZNJg0jGvgmRQlFQL_P-xz-ECSYUXNcMhr0sKzskzLMawnmPPlB" style="border: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; transform: rotate(0rad);" width="372" /></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span id="docs-internal-guid-f4efb6ef-0727-14f8-0ac4-700f0258c0c3"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"></span></span><br />
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<span id="docs-internal-guid-f4efb6ef-0727-14f8-0ac4-700f0258c0c3"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1780</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">: <a href="http://www.historicalportraits.com/Gallery.asp?Page=Item&ItemID=806&Desc=Miss-Palmer-|-Sir-Joshua-Reynolds-P.R.A.">Portrait of Miss Palmer by Joshua Reynolds</a></span></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNASAkELCvUFHZRUXdfqrrEd-Ucfg_9PPToZ5lf53G2CrvBT0q7X6Z7syN2sx6iDwp9O9q7WxUdYOzFS4JNV98Vv6CcBz3dilIsGy1ZJ19-BrP3lG5xCJU36FtJ0tm5Ii4quDkAmNtbHs/s1600/Screen+Shot+2018-03-10+at+7.50.00+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="187" data-original-width="137" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNASAkELCvUFHZRUXdfqrrEd-Ucfg_9PPToZ5lf53G2CrvBT0q7X6Z7syN2sx6iDwp9O9q7WxUdYOzFS4JNV98Vv6CcBz3dilIsGy1ZJ19-BrP3lG5xCJU36FtJ0tm5Ii4quDkAmNtbHs/s400/Screen+Shot+2018-03-10+at+7.50.00+PM.png" width="293" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>1780</b>: The woman in the background of </span><br />
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<span style="background-position: 0px 0px; border: 0px; color: black; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: small; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><i><a href="http://www.britishmuseum.org/research/collection_online/collection_object_details/collection_image_gallery.aspx?assetId=148419001&objectId=1638820&partId=1" style="background-position: 0px 0px; border: 0px; color: black; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">The Pretty Waterwoman, or Admiral Purblind just run aground by Peggy Pullaway</a></i></span></h1>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>Runaway Advertisements Featuring White Bonnets: 1770-1782</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><i>From Wives, Slaves, and Servants by Don Hagist</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span id="docs-internal-guid-f4efb6ef-072c-290d-809d-94e942d16c3b"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1770</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">: Runaway advertisement from the PA gazette: 19 year old Margaret Stephens wore a “white sarsnet bonnet” (Hagist, 11)</span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span id="docs-internal-guid-f4efb6ef-072c-6c6c-34b4-c2884391bf97"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1771</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">: Runaway advertisement from the NY Gazette: 26 year old Mary Gordon AKA Mary Dill who was described as “ pale fac’d, down look, takes snuff and much addicted to drink, and a great lyar,” wore a “white bonnet” (Hagist, 17)</span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span id="docs-internal-guid-f4efb6ef-072c-bb56-9060-b2f0c2a57348"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1774</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">: A Runaway advertisement from the VA Gazette. A “well set Mulatto woman Slave named Bess had among her possessions a “white cotton shift and bonnet” (Hagist, 56)</span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span id="docs-internal-guid-f4efb6ef-072d-9929-9285-f0d9f853e9cf"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1775</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">: Runaway ad for Ann Owen in the PA packet. Ann had a “white apron, bonnet, and cloth shoes.” (Hagist, 77)</span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span id="docs-internal-guid-f4efb6ef-072d-df4c-fc5f-fef34d7684c8"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1775:</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> Runaway ad Mary Patterson in the Pennsylvania Gazette. “She had on, and took with her, an old white bonnet…” (Hagist, 78)</span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span id="docs-internal-guid-f4efb6ef-072e-0af4-702a-3e4fc557db49"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1775</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">: Elizabeth Cleland. Pennsylvania Gazette. “2 bonnets, one black, the other white.” (Hagist, 83)</span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span id="docs-internal-guid-f4efb6ef-072e-335f-d259-dface434b475"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1776</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">: “mulatto woman named Bess” took a “white cotton bonnet, and one black silk.” VA Gazette (Hagist, 91) </span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span id="docs-internal-guid-f4efb6ef-072e-58e0-c7b6-c56a5bf0edad"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1776</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">: PA Gazette. An Irish servant woman named Jane Shepherd took “One white halfworn peeling bonnet.” (Hagist, 96)</span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span id="docs-internal-guid-f4efb6ef-072e-7b80-8063-a7cc7fcd6e50"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1776</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">: PA Gazette. Irish servant named Margaret Kelly took a “white linen bonnet”. (Hagist, 104)</span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span id="docs-internal-guid-f4efb6ef-072e-9aaf-315d-c573b9d93937"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1778</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">: PA Gazette. 16 year old servant girl named Olive Oatley took a “white linen bonnet”. (Hagist, 126)</span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span id="docs-internal-guid-f4efb6ef-072e-bb49-aedc-aa7e1fd6f60d"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1778</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> Royal Gazette NY. “negro wench, Phillis” took a “white bonnet” (Hagist, 126)</span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span id="docs-internal-guid-f4efb6ef-072e-e364-3f48-f614f00954be"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1779</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> PA Packet. Servant Mary O’Brien took a “white silk bonnet” (Hagist, 138)</span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span id="docs-internal-guid-f4efb6ef-072f-061e-5d02-676a864879df"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1782</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">: Maryland Journal. 35 year old “negro wench” “A white silk bonnet.” (Hagist, 153)</span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span id="docs-internal-guid-f4efb6ef-072f-2782-4b98-cf718d9bbb08"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1782</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">. PA Gazette. 15 year old Margaret Morris took a “white linen bonnet” (Hagist, 154)</span></span></span><br />
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Sarah Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02980045666044299271noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5127104774827438950.post-90462989967103644912018-03-05T21:51:00.001-05:002018-03-06T13:58:24.990-05:00Fantastical and LARP Costuming 2015-2018: Steampunk Ensemble<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj75Arhiw2nWTNu44ckNQYOftc2ArPtxg3I0Kr22AeCdOifJFFv1eYc69wBiPmrcr1rekviuGzqKaWhiieVHKVxgTlu1sLtEEQTcOzOX5xM8Mr7CDw5Wbo6Fi_IJ_BAndUWf2lVB9Zmvz4/s1600/roselandcottage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="706" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj75Arhiw2nWTNu44ckNQYOftc2ArPtxg3I0Kr22AeCdOifJFFv1eYc69wBiPmrcr1rekviuGzqKaWhiieVHKVxgTlu1sLtEEQTcOzOX5xM8Mr7CDw5Wbo6Fi_IJ_BAndUWf2lVB9Zmvz4/s1600/roselandcottage.jpg" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig_zqTQJL_cUbI3XH9NLAQhogKZ2wzTBkb74tSdA2CgP5b7zZ2qvCiBeu7sXIOOGpSqDRDQoCqLcI6jsCLXV4AijSjX9Rq1C15KNzYpSz3X2M2M9ejl3iSgALpgyG7h4YOaswLoHPccOc/s1600/IMG_8053.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig_zqTQJL_cUbI3XH9NLAQhogKZ2wzTBkb74tSdA2CgP5b7zZ2qvCiBeu7sXIOOGpSqDRDQoCqLcI6jsCLXV4AijSjX9Rq1C15KNzYpSz3X2M2M9ejl3iSgALpgyG7h4YOaswLoHPccOc/s320/IMG_8053.jpg" width="240" /></a><b style="font-weight: bold;">March 2017 Steampunk Ensemble</b><b>: </b>After the arrival of Young Sir, the entire costume collection fit a little bit... differently. I still had one corset that fit alright nearly two years after the baby, so I set to work on an 1880s inspired Steampunk suit for a LARP event, and for vending at Steampunk events.</div>
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The jacket is <a href="http://www.trulyvictorian.net/womens-sewing-patterns/natural-form-patterns-1877-1882/">Truly Victorian's Jacket Bodice pattern</a> (TV428), and the fabric is a polyester <a href="http://www.joann.com/fashion-suitings-brown-and-navy-houndstooth-fabric/11738952.html#start=1">Fashion Poly Spandex Suiting Fabric</a> in brown and navy. The skirt is the tried and true Truly Victorian TV261 <a href="http://www.trulyvictorian.net/womens-sewing-patterns/late-bustle-patterns-1883-1889/">Four Gore Underskirt</a><br />
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The mask was made by <a href="https://www.etsy.com/people/ForbiddenIdentity">Forbidden Identity</a>. I perched it on top of a brown derby hat.<br />
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In working on this piece, I *gasp* actually followed the fitting instructions in the pattern before cutting out my pieces, and lo and behold, it worked. I only had to take it in in one small spot at the waist.<br />
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I wore it again to vend at <a href="https://www.historicnewengland.org/property/roseland-cottage/">Roseland Cottage's</a> Victorian Fair in September, 2017. The lovely photo in front of the pink house <span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "sf optimized" , , , "blinkmacsystemfont" , ".sfnstext-regular" , sans-serif; letter-spacing: -0.11999999731779099px;">was taken by photographer, Amanda Manso from A. J. shaw Studios in Eastford, CT.</span><br />
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If I had been planning ahead, and not just thinking "oooh, the pretty fabric," I would have gone with natural fibers. While exactly the professorial daywear vibe I was going for, it is brutal outside in the sun. This one may have to be relegated to indoor use only.<br />
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In other news, the <a href="https://www.trulyvictorian.net/1887-imperial-tournure.html">TV 1887 Imperial Tournure </a>is everything I ever wanted in a lobster tail bustle and more. I of course, had to make mine in deep red cotton twill.<br />
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<b>September, 2017</b>: Vending at the "Steam Rollin' " Steampunk themed <a href="https://www.facebook.com/events/1820097131621541/">Imagine Main St.</a> Event in Manchester, CT. This was the second trip out for this ensemble, and my first time actually selling stuff I made in person without Ian and Royal Blue Traders.<br />
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I did alright selling fabric flower fascinators, feather cockades, and other accessories.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vending at the Victorian Fair at Roseland Cottage September 2017</td></tr>
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I also had occasion at Roseland Cottage to do a quick pencil portrait of my fellow sutler, Bear. I've been working on a second teacher certification in art - yet another explanation for my lengthy absence from costume blogging.</div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF91BW4uuGNT_CeireAImn-iAO-_AwuC4qLaB5eR9_eKQDEKh678tZRiuhFqCKahjavT-nSqTaZVDFk9G2WLAHT-G64SrLqyB-bbJyINiXc6cgm_qh2fKqNAvj-mkC0BO6AQzZUiWPgK8/s1600/victorianfair.jpg" imageanchor="1"><span style="margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></span></a></div>
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<br />Sarah Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02980045666044299271noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5127104774827438950.post-46661563572621634412018-03-03T12:08:00.002-05:002018-03-03T12:15:27.446-05:00She's Back! What I've Been Up to Since 2015<b><span style="font-size: large;">Highlights from The Last Four Years</span></b><br />
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<b>July 2015</b>: I had a baby! He's a sweet little handful, and doesn't give me much time to sew, much less blog about it. Now that he's two and a half, I found myself once again with the time inclination. Here are a few hi lights of various costume projects from the last (nearly) three years.</div>
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I've been pretty solidly focused on my day job teaching costume design at an arts magnet high school, and our several productions a year, but I also have been expanding the 18th century millinery operation with my good friend, Ian Graves at <a href="http://www.royalbluetraders.com/">Royal Blue Traders</a>.</div>
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The sales of these <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/arachneattire">caps and bonnets</a> has been paying for my return to school in an effort to advance my professional credentials. Thank you to all of our customers, and to Lauren Stowell at American Duchess for the shout-out back when the Hermoine was visiting Virginia in June, 2015. She featured my shop in her article, The <a href="http://blog.americanduchess.com/2015/06/the-versatile-18th-century-market-hat.html">Versatile 18th Century Market Hat</a>. So thank you, Lauren. I think I nearly exploded from a fan-girl squee attack when someone pointed it out to me.</div>
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<b>Bottle Green Shot Silk Taffeta 1770s Robe A L'Anglaise</b></div>
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2015? My mom's bottle green shot silk taffeta late 1770s robe a l'anglaise. She is a tiny stick woman. It didn't take much fabric. Now, if only we could get her to wear an 18th century hair dressing... At least I could convince her to wear stays.</div>
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My mom is not a reenactor, or even a historical costume enthusiast, but we do manage to get her to come to a winter ball here and there. The last few years, my unit, <a href="https://www.facebook.com/ninthoffoot/">the Ninth Regiment of Foot</a> has hosted a ball at the Hartford Armory's Officer's Club. Most of my work for myself since 2015 has been for this event, since I don't get the opportunity to dress as a lady too often.</div>
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<b style="font-weight: bold;">Jan 2015: </b>Blue Silk Taffeta Shortgown and <a href="https://www.renaissancefabrics.net/product/white-silk-organza-stripe-2/">white striped silk organza</a> petticoat.</div>
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I was five months pregnant, and I wanted to go to the ball, but my options were somewhat limited. I made a pair of maternity stays, and improvised with a button-front short gown. The lighting at the Officer's Club isn't the greatest, so getting good photos with an iPhone is always a challenge.<br />
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<b>February 2017: Brown Linen English Gown</b></div>
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Attempt #1 with <a href="https://atthesignofthegoldenscissors.com/products/18th-century-english-gown">Larkin and Smith's English Gown</a>. The 20+ page instruction booklet with the detailed photos and diagrams was extremely helpful, but I ended up with way too much volume in the sleeves. Steph from Larkin and Smith helped me to set them properly when I ran into her at the New England Reenactor Fair in Sturbridge. Overall, not bad for a first try, but I learned a lot with this gown that I was able to apply to two later versions. More on this in greater detail later. Also, American Duchess has a decent article on 18th century sleeve setting. <a href="http://blog.americanduchess.com/2011/06/setting-18th-century-sleeves-18th.html">Setting 18th Century Sleeves the 18th Century Way</a></div>
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<b>July 2017</b>: Attempt #2: Printed Cotton English Gown</div>
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<b>July 2017</b>: The Little One explores his first 18th Century Event with the Ninth Regiment of Foot. We'll have you marching to the colors in no time, my boy.</div>
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<b>Attempt #3: </b>Jan 2018: The Strawberry Cupcake</div>
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The fluffiest of pink cupcakes. <a href="https://atthesignofthegoldenscissors.com/products/18th-century-english-gown">Larkin and Smith's English Gown</a> in strawberry pink silk taffeta. This was my second attempt with the pattern, and sleeve issues were more under control, and the fit around the waist was much better. I also had a lesson in how to pin a stomacher from Hallie and Steph which helped immensely. Placing the pins horizontally makes all the difference, as does pinning the robing independently of the stomacher.<br />
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<b style="text-align: center;">Caps, Bonnets, and my travels with Royal Blue Traders - </b><span style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.facebook.com/search/top/?q=new%20england%20reenactors%20fair%202018">The Northeast Reenactor Fair</a> has been good to me these last few years. Look for us in Portsmouth, NH at the <a href="http://www.ellisriverknifeworks.com/newengland-colonial-trade-fair">Colonial Trade and Craft Fair</a> at the end of March 2018.</span><br />
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<br />Sarah Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02980045666044299271noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5127104774827438950.post-64628523092169743482015-11-07T12:17:00.000-05:002015-11-07T12:17:24.132-05:00Help! My bonnet got squished!<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEAydvoJyNblZfFTeVtkAxhNLfJqMXsaEzgssmbQwuhhOX1MIJBOHro_Bzu9BNPpkFQJALNyqjMJj1GkqpJrYSN0xlM9p4AHSA7IzVHBdiC45mY-hQfXJjvG7k57V40Y8KqxsE91WZhkk/s1600/IMG_4339.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEAydvoJyNblZfFTeVtkAxhNLfJqMXsaEzgssmbQwuhhOX1MIJBOHro_Bzu9BNPpkFQJALNyqjMJj1GkqpJrYSN0xlM9p4AHSA7IzVHBdiC45mY-hQfXJjvG7k57V40Y8KqxsE91WZhkk/s320/IMG_4339.jpg" width="240" /></a>I have received a few requests on this subject, so here is a little tutorial to help you fix a squished buckram bonnet brim.<br />
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You will need: A steam iron, ironing board, cotton scrap to serve as a barrier, and a wig head.<br />
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First, take the squished brim, and iron using the cotton scrap as a barrier with high steam to dampen and heat up the buckram. Once the buckram is soft and pliable, roll the brim while you move the iron over it to re-shape the brim.<br />
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Once's it's been re-shaped, let it dry and re-harden on the wig head.<br />
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The crown of the bonnet can be steamed with a little hand-held steamer to un-wrinkle it.<br />
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I hope this helps, and I hope to be able to make a video at some point. Happy bonnet-wearing!<br />
<br />Sarah Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02980045666044299271noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5127104774827438950.post-33413548027190780052015-09-24T09:07:00.004-04:002015-09-24T09:14:14.724-04:00Quick Change FixI've done some work for Ginny at <a href="http://www.herstorytheater.org/">Her Story Theater</a> and with the most recent 17th century jacket, she needed it to be easily removed during a performance with a minimum of noise.<br />
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Velcro was loud. It made a really conspicuous ripping sound, and left icky goo all over the fabric with adhesive. Snaps were a bit unwieldy, and buttons took forever, so I tried magnets.<br />
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I started with the lining and a pack of magnets I bought at Joann's in the craft section. I cut little rectangles of the lining fabric to fashion pockets to hold the magnets. 2.5 by 3.5 in.<br />
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After stitching the magnet pockets into place, I trimmed up the excess and put on the facings. I ironed down the seam allowance to start. The outer edge had to be hand-stitched because there was not enough room for the machine's foot.</div>
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The result was a magnet-closed jacket that can pass for a theatrical rendition of the 1630s and can be removed quickly and silently.<br />
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<br />Sarah Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02980045666044299271noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5127104774827438950.post-72501266106800464662015-06-11T05:06:00.003-04:002015-06-11T17:17:57.505-04:00Colors in 18th Century Bonnets<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I've been busy busy making 18th century headwear for my adventures with <a href="http://www.royalbluetraders.com/">Royal Blue Traders</a>. I've also been on the hunt for decent evidence of colored silk 18th century market bonnets, and met with some success. So far, from what I have been able to turn up, the brighter colors, which tended toward blues and greens, were popular in the 1780s, and especially popular for younger wearers.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>Blue Bonnets</b></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9RQhIRYQBKxscEuNC-zM4w9TFavTiH3r9lDOeY-4Ib2StEY4fN8-_2adNeshLDRzSTJoMWUfJD7eum7J3ePGbiZ3IiMB-a5PTxOilJK-zKckMO4soT_EV4P0qmLfQezVE6zW_v0fT69U/s1600/1947-64-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="275" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9RQhIRYQBKxscEuNC-zM4w9TFavTiH3r9lDOeY-4Ib2StEY4fN8-_2adNeshLDRzSTJoMWUfJD7eum7J3ePGbiZ3IiMB-a5PTxOilJK-zKckMO4soT_EV4P0qmLfQezVE6zW_v0fT69U/s320/1947-64-1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><a href="http://www.philamuseum.org/collections/permanent/50366.html?mulR=25606%7C6"><b>A Lady and Her Children Relieving a Cottager</b></a> (1781) by </span></i><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">William Redmore Bigg, English, 1755 - 1828</span></div>
Some very interesting hats in general in this painting.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN7JkW-yPZ_wvYJxucRYh_BT00b6iWhxvu2aX8iIOZamAZom2bbz8TGfyH3G8_oEn-HySIxgBpN9jcq6v6xkI5KnM2a4AW2jt9PtCVRDXLdp2QZQtIN6QB-hDLblWDnO851dI8E46QQck/s1600/fa668c5bc5b4c59eba2cccff6e9dffae.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN7JkW-yPZ_wvYJxucRYh_BT00b6iWhxvu2aX8iIOZamAZom2bbz8TGfyH3G8_oEn-HySIxgBpN9jcq6v6xkI5KnM2a4AW2jt9PtCVRDXLdp2QZQtIN6QB-hDLblWDnO851dI8E46QQck/s320/fa668c5bc5b4c59eba2cccff6e9dffae.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://www.ehcross.com/paintings.html"><b>A Market Girl Holding a Mallard Duck</b></a> (1787) by John Russell, English, 1745-1806<br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: small;"><span style="font-weight: normal; line-height: 21px;">I made <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/236322564/peacock-blue-silk-taffeta-18th-century?ref=shop_home_active_1">my own version</a> with less fullness, and more of bill-shaped brim in some lovely teal silk taffeta I picked up at Affordable Fabrics in Rocky Hill, CT. That place is a treasure, but it's real hit-or-miss as to what gems you can find hidden away on the flat-fold remnants tables. You also really need to know what you're looking for, and have a good handle on how to identify fibers, as nothing is labeled.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My version</td></tr>
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<span style="line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>Green Bonnets</b></span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: small;"><a href="http://www.the-athenaeum.org/art/detail.php?ID=168636">A Girl Gathering Filberts </a><span style="font-weight: normal;">(1782) by William Redmore Bigg</span></span></span></h1>
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="line-height: 1.3em;">This </span><span style="line-height: 20.799999237060547px;">spring-ey little piece is a very similar shape to the ones I have been making. I think I need to re-create one from this portrait with that pink ribbon.</span></span></span></div>
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<b><a href="http://www.britishmuseum.org/research/collection_online/collection_object_details.aspx?objectId=1619404&partId=1&searchText=mrs+ogee&page=1">Mrs Ogee</a></b>, satirical print published by Matthew Darly, 1775</div>
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This one features an older lady in a more olive green with blue puffed trim and a wider brim shape.</div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-style: inherit; line-height: 1.3;">There is an extremely helpful, extensive list of sources a the <a href="http://thehiveonline.org/bonnet-article.htm">Buzz at </a></span><a href="http://thehiveonline.org/bonnet-article.htm" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span style="line-height: 20px;">the</span><span style="font-style: inherit; line-height: 1.3;"> Hive</span></a><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">. Especially helpful for the American Revolution period. Now, on to cranking out more hats in time for the season before the baby arrives!</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/236218866/pale-green-silk-taffeta-18th-century?ref=shop_home_active_2" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY6yPm3T6CYR9QVogvK6RyoSXhIIMwBEV00e9aWc1tuVcLYuzP_R6_FNYNGgK4nGq-GrdhriqBmSism3WW2Rj-QfZrSTBB5NDHQhpngdpODHOA_HrdaV9HoTXyhQ2qeQ4rRSArP0xqAzo/s320/il_570xN.783507045_2poa.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My version</td></tr>
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Sarah Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02980045666044299271noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5127104774827438950.post-79449331245658374382015-03-23T03:17:00.003-04:002015-03-23T03:17:20.835-04:00Silver Silk Taffeta 18th Century Robe à l'Anglaise For Sale<a href="https://www.etsy.com/your/shops/arachneattire/tools/listings/227254346">https://www.etsy.com/your/shops/arachneattire/tools/listings/227254346</a>Sarah Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02980045666044299271noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5127104774827438950.post-38102122014758973592015-03-12T12:26:00.004-04:002015-03-12T12:27:23.520-04:00Thinking about Renaissance Faire Vending<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDRaEkIl3xT-9GO9N41Zq0XBkldXhyphenhyphen3LNxHk_SY5ke-XqFDd0YnBMl_kFgjtsksAuFuhUnVoYI6d7qdusmZ6ue41UJvFaXbBz_7-URFJegJ4mBWISMg08NxXYd9pgJAtvJTjw6wCB4DTw/s1600/IMG_0386.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjToKVDasc9nOexf5ccGDrIwE0Ca6jPwA38dKLUqcJW2VzGO7oqta3rcsdZNjRnQ8j63ReXQlmwdX3WuO2VxSEg_SAra0-4a9kNJPjcm4xSEhLGZxQA2xEcEYVqd62YpWAJosuw8A5lvOo/s1600/IMG_0395.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjToKVDasc9nOexf5ccGDrIwE0Ca6jPwA38dKLUqcJW2VzGO7oqta3rcsdZNjRnQ8j63ReXQlmwdX3WuO2VxSEg_SAra0-4a9kNJPjcm4xSEhLGZxQA2xEcEYVqd62YpWAJosuw8A5lvOo/s1600/IMG_0395.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDRaEkIl3xT-9GO9N41Zq0XBkldXhyphenhyphen3LNxHk_SY5ke-XqFDd0YnBMl_kFgjtsksAuFuhUnVoYI6d7qdusmZ6ue41UJvFaXbBz_7-URFJegJ4mBWISMg08NxXYd9pgJAtvJTjw6wCB4DTw/s1600/IMG_0386.jpg" height="320" width="240" />I have been giving some thought to getting set up to vend at local renaissance faires and other such things for non-historical pretties like flower crowns, feather cockades and maybe some other millinery. Due to the cost of materials and other overhead, I would have to charge somewhere in the realm of $30 per crown. Is this a fair price? (no pun intended)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvAsUJXQvSnXcRx0qyyqK2Yefdr71nnkrMsLknFhSG7o-6yMZ3p0vVNKPwdpeo-gWi5xK724CkPiiuNYtFQ-6XeVWh0eTWyYEe3KolvuiyDeigDJ667R03fvfDsIHDMUAmxjTTJgV4Gds/s1600/IMG_2699.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvAsUJXQvSnXcRx0qyyqK2Yefdr71nnkrMsLknFhSG7o-6yMZ3p0vVNKPwdpeo-gWi5xK724CkPiiuNYtFQ-6XeVWh0eTWyYEe3KolvuiyDeigDJ667R03fvfDsIHDMUAmxjTTJgV4Gds/s1600/IMG_2699.jpg" height="400" width="206" /></a></div>
Going into the spring renaissance faire season, I started thinking about something that would be both comfortable and flattering. My mind went immediately to Game of Thrones and the delightfully creepy "Red Woman", the Lady Melissandre. In order to create a look that is in line with hers, I thought about ordering a cotton <a href="http://www.moresca.com/product_info.php?products_id=120">Cotte dress from Moresca</a>, but they're not cut to flatter a pregnant belly. They're also $115, which was more than I wanted to spend. <br />
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I started with the bodice pattern from <a href="http://butterick.mccall.com/b5181-products-7764.php?page_id=155">Butterick B5181</a> (which the cat promptly destroyed) and the sleeve pattern from <a href="http://www.simplicity.com/p-11917-misses-mock-wrap-knit-dress.aspx">New Look S0597</a>. I had to cut the sleeve down a little, but it worked pretty perfectly. I will likely end up shortening the sleeves to just above the elbow or shorter.</div>
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I ordered some <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/271750292712?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT">stretchy cotton/spandex from Ebay</a> for about $30. The seller's username is koshtex. <br />
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The fabric was heavier than I wanted. I was hoping for something thinner and drapier, but this will serve for the moment.</div>
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Working with stretch knits has been quite a learning curve, and there are definitely things I would do differently - like wait until the entire bodice was assembled to hem the neckline - but overall, this went together relatively quickly and easily.</div>
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For the skirt portion, I took a measurement around the ribcage: 36 in. My intention was to create four trapezoid shapes with a gusset in the back for extra drama. 36/4 = 9, plus 1.25 seam allowance.</div>
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The back of the bodice ended up being a bit too big, but the overall shape of the skirt is fantastically full. I think I will wait to make any tweaks to the fit until May. Next up is a hooded scarf to go with it.</div>
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Sarah Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02980045666044299271noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5127104774827438950.post-6935439710873390192015-02-15T11:50:00.002-05:002015-02-15T11:50:55.666-05:0018th Century Wooden Fashion Doll<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx8SftJkfqBICMeYjbp-GCY8iwxBZxNPDugLNkIhI_XHN5XlfBUAxteE4FTSYACSCc1MynHeRtdybN2d9oAX75ZgEiZ36HCSTeIBQVyhjJDxeVAA0MZoO1zAnRAhyphenhyphenv8ItKS0wzZ74Vblo/s1600/photo-9.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx8SftJkfqBICMeYjbp-GCY8iwxBZxNPDugLNkIhI_XHN5XlfBUAxteE4FTSYACSCc1MynHeRtdybN2d9oAX75ZgEiZ36HCSTeIBQVyhjJDxeVAA0MZoO1zAnRAhyphenhyphenv8ItKS0wzZ74Vblo/s1600/photo-9.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
My dad was kind enough to carve this doll for me out of bass wood using the <a href="http://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/millfarm18thcenturyfashiondollpattern.aspx">Mill Farm pattern</a>.<br />
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It's a little rustic looking, but that's perfect. She could be a home-carved toy version of the expensive French dolls that were not really meant as toys.<br />
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As soon as I finish painting the exposed "skin" with white acrylic, I was thinking of using silk spinning fiber to make hair. It might be kind of fun to try to fashion a tiny pouf wig.Sarah Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02980045666044299271noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5127104774827438950.post-37493876282758345842015-02-01T17:03:00.001-05:002015-02-01T17:04:51.671-05:00Blue Silk Taffeta 18th Century Jacket<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
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<span style="text-align: start;">I based this 18th century jacket on the </span><a href="http://www.jpryan.com/details/jacket.html" style="text-align: start;">JP Ryan</a><span style="text-align: start;"> pattern. It's made of gorgeous, thick, iridescent french blue silk taffeta with self trim and fabric covered buttons. I have made several jackets from this pattern before, so it went together very quickly. The only trouble came with having to wait until the last minute to fit the front.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">There are two petticoats: The under layer is a cream silk taffeta, and the outer layer is <a href="http://www.renaissancefabrics.net/product/diamond-white-satin-stripe/">semi-sheer striped silk</a> from Renaissance Fabrics. It's so stiff, and stands out so much, I feel a little like a cupcake. It makes 19 weeks look like quite a bit more.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">The photos don't really do it justice. There are some beautiful portraits that use a similar type of fabric, but they're all from 1785 or later. Apparently it was all the rage in <a href="http://18thcenturyblog.com/2009/07/russian-dresses#image_1165">Russia</a> in the late 1780s, early 1790s.</span><br />
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<a href="http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Antoine_vestier_-_retrato_de_dama_com_livro.jpg"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; line-height: 20px;">Portrait of a Lady with a Book, Next to a River Source, Antoine Vestier, circa 1785</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; line-height: 20px;">.</span></span></a><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><a href="http://www.arthermitage.org/Elisabeth-Louise-Vigee-Le-Brun/Portrait-of-Emperor-Pavel-I-s-Daughters.html"><em style="background-color: white; color: #5e5b5b; line-height: 20px;">Emperor Pavel I’s Daughters</em><span style="background-color: white; color: #5e5b5b; line-height: 20px;"> by Elisabeth Louise Vigée Le Brun,1796.</span></a></span><br />
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<span style="line-height: 1.3;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;"><a href="http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Elena_Pavlovna_of_Russia_by_V.Borovikovskiy_(1796,_Gatchina).jpg">Elena Pavlovna of Russia by V.Borovikovskiy (1796, Gatchina</a></span></span><br />
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<span style="line-height: 1.3;">Since the </span><span style="line-height: 20px;">ruching is so wide, I needed a double set of hooks and eyes to close up the top. It worked out rather well. The only thing I didn't quite get to was adding ruched trim to the cuffs. I may need to add more fluffles and details for the next time this jacket makes an appearance.</span><br />
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All done! I suppose I could find something better to lace them with, but I needed to make sure they fit. It's hard to believe I'm nearly half way through already.<br />
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The side slits are adjustable enough that I think I will be able to wear these stays through the spring, and beyond.<br />
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The linen is quite stretchy, and the fit is good. They are weirdly comfortable.Sarah Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02980045666044299271noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5127104774827438950.post-62820034675587735112015-01-23T12:01:00.001-05:002015-01-23T12:09:41.138-05:00Maternity Stays<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYfp8LyLsi5EwPEEoQfHG-1c3PIlKL-aoWtiNjFN28hchiIPTVs6NohakZz0uBzjMykZymTRlfYipG_PwdzsFyMMARbkjnvWS2QDaUi3CjjmncPN3Vm9hbE5st_MWX4-vWtxD6AuGsom8/s1600/IMG_2270.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYfp8LyLsi5EwPEEoQfHG-1c3PIlKL-aoWtiNjFN28hchiIPTVs6NohakZz0uBzjMykZymTRlfYipG_PwdzsFyMMARbkjnvWS2QDaUi3CjjmncPN3Vm9hbE5st_MWX4-vWtxD6AuGsom8/s1600/IMG_2270.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
Inspired in party by an article I read on <a href="http://hyalineprosaic.blogspot.com/2012/06/gestational-stays.html">Hyaline Prosaic</a> I've been away from blogging for a bit, largely because I wasn't quite ready to announce the baby to the world. I used the same pattern that I used on my <a href="http://arachneattire.blogspot.com/2014/09/cutting-down-armholes-on-18th-century.html">pink silk stays</a>, but with a few modifications.<br />
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I knew the heavy, <a href="http://www.fabrics-store.com/first.php?goto=big_fabric&menu=f&menu=f&fabric_id=1287">7.1 oz linen canvas from Fabrics-store.com </a>would stretch, so I made sure the opening in the back would be a little wider than on the pink stays. Also, after wearing the pink stays a few times, I realized I needed to cut down the armholes considerably. This project benefited directly from mistakes made on the pink stays.<br />
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They are also much more flexible, as I used the 1/4 inch wide cable ties for boning as opposed to the thicker ones on the pink stays. Really, I just need something to shape the bust for this set.<br />
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My one serious regret here is the binding. I used a cotton twill that in retrospect, I just too thick. I was worried about the bones poking through the binding if I used linen, but next time, I'm just using something thinner.<br />
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The first test-run for these stays will be the <a href="https://www.facebook.com/events/656179144479216">Midwinter Ball</a> on January 31. Hopefully it works.Sarah Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02980045666044299271noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5127104774827438950.post-54163581351034482462014-09-07T11:04:00.003-04:002014-09-07T11:04:42.245-04:00Cutting Down the Armholes on 18th Century Stays<span id="goog_1271187346"></span><span id="goog_1271187347"></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUFixWOQcMtQxXWhvMSpz0Wir3YRWbPlybVyIqUbDr9mSv10q7P_DVFY9pKbS6w4FgHOLhEesu7T7Azd4yj5ZpPSqJYFq08j9xCLX_reHlxc_LdZO5sDqvk5Lz5jp5NnWsTqbQohfU_18/s640/blogger-image-1214006595.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUFixWOQcMtQxXWhvMSpz0Wir3YRWbPlybVyIqUbDr9mSv10q7P_DVFY9pKbS6w4FgHOLhEesu7T7Azd4yj5ZpPSqJYFq08j9xCLX_reHlxc_LdZO5sDqvk5Lz5jp5NnWsTqbQohfU_18/s320/blogger-image-1214006595.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
I kind of guessed and free-handed a pattern for my new set of 18th century stays from an older pair that didn't fit so well. What I came out of it with was a general design that worked pretty well, but when I laced it up, I couldn't lower my arms all the way. Oops. Time to pick out the stitches on the top binding, re-cut a few bones, and fix the problem.<br />
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The bones are cable ties from Home Depot, and I like to melt the ends of them to keep them from wearing through the fabric on the stays.<br />
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There are a couple of decent articles out there on alternatives for boning. Whale bone is obviously out of the question, and I find that cable ties are a cost effective, durable, and good-looking option.<br />
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Mode Hisorique has a good one: http://www.modehistorique.com/research/boningdescriptions.pdf<br />
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Jenny LaFleur goes into some detail on the wear here: http://www.jennylafleur.com/study/boning.htm<br />
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And a really cool article I found written by an author who has tried actual baleen, and was able to compare it to other options out there. Her conclusion: reproduction baleen is not the answer: http://stay-ingalive.blogspot.com/2011/05/battle-of-boning.html<br />
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After reading these, I feel a bit better about "cheating" and using cable ties.<br />
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Here we have a set of before and after shots.I cut out about an inch from the armhole. Now to find some more of that pink silk to extend the binding.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBrxscBugtQlAthEnX5qsSnteY93YGLvVBXo3os6qflzY-oTxn8TA1DhOd2ykvjlqwIVVyhRrmn63O2ENh5QMaTEPAXCLj3zSMW5P3OLfDApUNYOSJqRKE_2QVPRUCUzKw4Tv55eimZB0/s640/blogger-image-510057540.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBrxscBugtQlAthEnX5qsSnteY93YGLvVBXo3os6qflzY-oTxn8TA1DhOd2ykvjlqwIVVyhRrmn63O2ENh5QMaTEPAXCLj3zSMW5P3OLfDApUNYOSJqRKE_2QVPRUCUzKw4Tv55eimZB0/s320/blogger-image-510057540.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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Sarah Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02980045666044299271noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5127104774827438950.post-50914580833911463132014-08-28T09:31:00.002-04:002014-08-28T09:32:17.186-04:00Regency Sari Dress, Version 2.0<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-oiWdGK0AzdENz49797n-_PgKxlD6IVThkV2cfOI19nHcS3_sNwMlm4PBIaPNPeswlq-astSBuzbJFEUF0DUv2IF1PVr49zBfGBOIOR-yISMSELfxm34prOgBHPo19yrLaw-5D_2MpDs/s1600/sari.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-oiWdGK0AzdENz49797n-_PgKxlD6IVThkV2cfOI19nHcS3_sNwMlm4PBIaPNPeswlq-astSBuzbJFEUF0DUv2IF1PVr49zBfGBOIOR-yISMSELfxm34prOgBHPo19yrLaw-5D_2MpDs/s1600/sari.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
Been away for some while. Life has been eventful (in the best possible way). For a fancy dress Regency event in CT this October, I decided to re-work an oldie.<br />
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It began its life as a silk sari that I wore to an event in New Orleans in 2010. After that event, I re-cut it for a regency dance event. Knowing almost nothing about the period, I used the awful Simplicity "Jane Austen" pattern. It makes me smile now.<br />
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The new pattern for the 2014 re-cut is adapted from Janet Arnold, and was re-cut from the first one I attempted to make using that wretched Simplicity "Jane Austen" pattern. The back of the Simplicity pattern is a bit too wide at the center for a proper early 19th century look, and in this older version, the weight of the metal buttons wreaks havoc on the lightweight new version is a bit more period correct, basted to cotton musin to give it some strength.<br />
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I have yet to gather up the sleeves, so they look a bit odd, but the back already looks better. It's nice to be able to raise your arms above your head for the style of dance that was popular in this period. </div>
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The front trapezoidal piece is cut from the Sari's pallu. I haven't made the bib front piece yet. It's a counterintuitive construction method for me, but figuring out the quirks of a new era has been interesting. I look forward to this dress's debut as some kind of "east meets west" costume for the fancy dress ball in October.</div>
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Sarah Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02980045666044299271noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5127104774827438950.post-23791412700643630962014-05-03T16:03:00.000-04:002014-05-03T16:22:11.799-04:001812 Cotton Gown<div class="" style="clear: both;">
In preparation for the <a href="http://www.sailingmasters.org/ball1814/">Sailing Masters Ball</a> this May, I've been working on a striped cotton voile 1812-1814 gown. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvjZ2DvSez8cWHzPatTD1yDofyNy2JihDMjsU7NWnixKQpfx8Gdkhag3a3XEuWz-2cSbPt2s7DEpv9TsXgI14t5LGuPM7Zbci9ubK8waW9iDVSq4LllrDDVAeuOkWc7ZhyphenhypheneZSKfVPPd64/s1600/janetarnoldapron.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvjZ2DvSez8cWHzPatTD1yDofyNy2JihDMjsU7NWnixKQpfx8Gdkhag3a3XEuWz-2cSbPt2s7DEpv9TsXgI14t5LGuPM7Zbci9ubK8waW9iDVSq4LllrDDVAeuOkWc7ZhyphenhypheneZSKfVPPd64/s1600/janetarnoldapron.jpg" height="320" width="247" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">Illustration from Janet Arnold's <i>Patterns of Fashion</i></td></tr>
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<b>The pattern</b> was scaled up by SG from Janet Arnold, and miraculously, did not have to be altered much. I was amazed at how tiny the back piece looked.<br />
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I am not as familiar with the construction of this era as I am with others, so I have been taking it very slow. The next step is the one that terrifies me the most: Attaching the gathered "bib" front. The part I have already constructed will serve as a support, and a stay.<br />
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I was having real trouble visualizing how exactly it all goes together, so SG directed me to a great diagram she found from from the Etsy site of <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/69831924/size-8-to-10ish-bib-front-regency-gown?ref=v1_other_1">HerOdyssey</a>. I found them to be extremely helpful.<br />
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<i><b>From Her Odyssey on Etsy</b></i></div>
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<b>The fabric</b>, acquired as Osgood Textile in West Springfield, MA, was VERY sheer. I backed it with plain white cotton muslin, and basted the layers together. It's a lovely cream and pale tan stripe that works better for my complexion than stark white. It gathered up rather easily across the narrow back piece. I am still amazed at how tiny the pattern pieces looked.<br />
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<b>The skirt</b>: Constructed of three trapezoids, and one rectangle gathered across the narrow center back.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRXsxPO15IP-c7spfiBmzh1iUVQgIGSuREkRspqYmyFSqmsoaN_LrXPYYRmU0AW5yyE7cM-mdDhnXjHqPRVg7MR9GwcgJNfNVRsm-DlR3gdhVRCkIffMA9eP1mEWjMdXRg3ZSgasyLTZo/s1600/IMG_0023.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRXsxPO15IP-c7spfiBmzh1iUVQgIGSuREkRspqYmyFSqmsoaN_LrXPYYRmU0AW5yyE7cM-mdDhnXjHqPRVg7MR9GwcgJNfNVRsm-DlR3gdhVRCkIffMA9eP1mEWjMdXRg3ZSgasyLTZo/s1600/IMG_0023.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
<b>The sleeve</b> was drafted by SG as an alternative to just a straight puff sleeve. She called it "tulip". They are unlined, and hemmed. The bulk of the gathering is much lower toward the back, south of the top of the shoulder than I had thought it would be. My plan was to serge the sleeve and the lining together, rather than bind the armholes.<br />
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I decided that I needed a spring green silk taffeta bonnet to go with this ensemble, and to dress it up a bit. I used a pattern that is more suited to the 1770s-1790s, but it's not too far off, and is much more likely to see use for Revolutionary War era events.<br />
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I had fun making the bows and the puffings. I think it needs some more saturated spring green embellishments, though.<br />
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My deadline is the Regency picnic, and the ball May 10, 2014. I have a show the same weekend. Let's do this.<br />
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Sarah Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02980045666044299271noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5127104774827438950.post-22794658664387703492014-02-19T23:27:00.000-05:002014-02-19T23:27:49.253-05:00Who Doesn't Love a Man in Uniform<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br />The Ninth Regiment of Foot's first Midwinter Ball was a success, despite a certain amount of winter weather. We had a great time dancing to the music of the Reel Thing. Our dance caller, was superb, and we had a solid attendance. We look forward to doing the event again next year.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">This event was the debut of the 1770s Royal Navy uniform I made for a certain gentleman. It was a long time coming, as components and materials were hard to come by, but over all, I am pleased with the results, and I think it was worth the wait.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">There are 32 buttons and 32 hand-stitched buttonholes on this thing, and miles and miles of lace. I ran out of the limited supply of one-inch navy lace from Burnley and Trowbridge, and had to continue with the half-inch lace I was able to get from Ian at Royal Blue Traders.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">The result is a bit different from the 1780 portrait of young Nelson, but I'll take it.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Even though his young dance partner stole the show in her pink striped silk anglaise (made by me and her other fairy godmother… more on this later…), he was rather dashing </span>Too bad I forgot to put the hooks and eyes in the coat, so it hangs open more than I would like.<br />
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The wool is extremely thick. Built to withstand the elements. It's a wonder he was able to keep it on all night.<br />
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Future plans for this ensemble include replacing the waistcoat and doing a bit more fitting on the breeches. The small clothes were made by G. Gedney Godwin, and the wool they are made of is to die for, and beautifully soft. However, "made to measure" left something to be desired. The waistcoat when it arrived was miles and miles too big, and had to be completely dismantled, re-cut, and put back together. That was a bit of a nightmare considering the buttonholes were already sewn and cut, and could not be moved. Furthermore, the buttons were too few, and to far apart. The breeches were also too big, but easier to salvage. I may ask to buy a yard of the wool they used and just make my own with a linen back.<br />
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The coat is fully double breasted, and has some cool alternate buttoning options.<br />
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This project was quite a learning experience, and if I ever fall on my head and decide to do another, it will go a bit smoother.<br />
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As a costumer, it is imperative that one keep trying things just a bit more difficult and complex than the project before it. I look forward to the next one.<br />
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Sarah Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02980045666044299271noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5127104774827438950.post-16405492545946916012013-11-20T09:58:00.004-05:002013-11-20T09:58:55.500-05:00IXth of Foot Riding Habit<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I realize I have not updated since August. The reason for my slacking is that I've been teaching costume design and costume instruction at a performing arts school. A friend leaned over to me, and with a stage whisper asked, "Do they know they don't have to pay you to do that?<br />
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Life has been good.<br />
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There were a few fit issues to hammer out, and a lot of lace to hand-sew on, but we persevered. The riding habit after this portrait of the scandalous Lady Worsley by Sir Joshua Reynolds painted in 1777 came out quite pleasing, in spite of some sleeve fitting issues.<br />
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To address the fit of the sleeves, I just pinned, marked, and went to town on the upper and lower sleeve pieces.<br />
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The debut of this outfit was supposed to be this year's reenactment of the Battle of Saratoga. Unfortunately, our unit did not make it to the event. I wore it to the Connecticut Renaissance Faire's pirate event to mixed reviews, but it's real debut ended up being a small Brigade of the American Revolution event at Putnam Park in Redding, CT.<br />
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It was my first event as a (female) civilian. Normally, I wear a grubby ground-pounder's uniform and carry a musket for King and country. The ladies of the Brigade were very kind and welcoming, though it was a bit strange to have to introduce myself to people I'd tangentially known for over a decade.<br />
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Being cast as the officer's wife in the little escort scenario was a tad bit awkward when the gentlemen failed to tell me one of the ladies I'd be berating for leaving the column was his real-life wife... She was very good natured about it later.<br />
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<br />Sarah Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02980045666044299271noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5127104774827438950.post-59343758912897407552013-08-31T09:50:00.000-04:002013-08-31T09:50:27.301-04:00Nelson: Putting on the Lace<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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In order to achieve that "navy bro" popped collar, one-inch navy lace had to be attached to both sides of the lapels. I acquired 6 yards of this lace from the lovely Angela of <a href="http://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/">Burnley and Trowbridge</a>, and she told me it had been made for a member of Britain's royal family, but had not been delivered due to some imperfections in the weave. There were only about 12 inches that were not usable, so I worked around them.<br />
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I pinned the lace on both sides of the lapels in a kind of sandwich. I stitched down one side, and then along the seam were the gold lace joins.<br />
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I used silk thread in a color that was very close to the color of the lace.<br />
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The next step is to stitch down the lace on the blue side of the lapel. Stitching down the edge where the lace joins allows me to make a kind of bias tape, and fit it over the bulk of four layers of heavy coat wool. The effect, i hope, will look polished and smart.<br />
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Next is attempt number three at lining. Box pleats are the most hateful thing in the world. Ian, of <a href="https://www.facebook.com/RoyalBlueTraders">Royal Blue Traders</a> concurs, and assures me this is why the open skirting on men's frock coats was developed in the 18th century.<br />
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I tried a two-piece lining like the one on my <a href="http://arachneattire.blogspot.com/2013/05/ixth-riding-habit-lining-and-lace.html">ladies riding habit</a>, but it just didn't look right, so I ripped it out. Round 3 I think, I will try something more like this:<br />
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This is the Steampunk jacket I made last year and regrettably never blogged. This way of lining pleats looks fantastic on the outside, but looks a bit messy on the inside.<br />
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This is the inside of a knee-length sleeveless frock coat I made for a 7th sea costume. This style only works when the garment is long enough to hide the fact that the pleats are a mirror image of each other. I am leaning in the general direction of this style, but i think I will definitely do a a one-piece lining.<br />
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<br />Sarah Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02980045666044299271noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5127104774827438950.post-47183201429497717032013-06-08T09:53:00.001-04:002013-08-31T09:59:00.708-04:00IXth Riding Habit - Recutting Facings<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I cut the facings way too narrow. The buttons with the lace around them simply did not fit any way I tried it. There was only one option left. Ordering more fabric, and re-cutting all yellow parts.<br />
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<a href="http://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/2500-1.aspx">Burnley and Trowbridge</a> had a lovely yellow wool broadcloth for $25 a yard. It's lighter than my original color, but still in theme. I just used the IXth infantry grunt uniform for reference on the shape and width of the collar and facings. It's much wider than my original eyeballing, and you can barely tell on the color difference. Next up is handstitching buttonholes on the cuffs. I double-layered them in the yellow wool, and they were too thick for my puny machine to handle. I also added a buttonhole. The IXth uniform description calls for four buttonholes on the sleeves, but it just looked more balanced with five. Now I just have a lot of handsewing to do, and this project will be done.Sarah Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02980045666044299271noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5127104774827438950.post-45410729038522071212013-05-26T22:18:00.001-04:002013-08-31T09:59:51.691-04:00Back to you, Nelson<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I had cut the facings of the riding habit too narrow, and I ran out of the yellow wool I had. Since the riding habit project is awaiting the arrival of a new yard of dark yellow wool before construction can continue, I turned back to the Nelson coat. I really wanted to make sure the facings were a single piece so the collar could be popped like the portrait.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwQHoeGt5qDA_SvPlYNLQenpp78qdxWEPpXUYr-NhALa9BS1Z_eoyjnj9Rsj9Pcs1BxYqlgG2PhMzSzqi49-f0c-DHgmyG4Zz2MAvHizYU1Wrdfq-8sPeu71knkt2tjORclZkG7oOeLVA/s1600/nelsoncollarconstruction2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwQHoeGt5qDA_SvPlYNLQenpp78qdxWEPpXUYr-NhALa9BS1Z_eoyjnj9Rsj9Pcs1BxYqlgG2PhMzSzqi49-f0c-DHgmyG4Zz2MAvHizYU1Wrdfq-8sPeu71knkt2tjORclZkG7oOeLVA/s320/nelsoncollarconstruction2.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
I attached the white wool for the facings like a lining. The two layers of blue wool that make up the collar are treated as a single piece. The white wool is then treated essentially as a lining and folded backward. I mean to tack the actual cotton lining over all of it in the finishing process. In this instance, it seems easier to show than to tell.<br />
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I've been waiting for parts, but I think I can tack the lining in before getting lace and buttons.<br />
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The facings get folded back and buttoned in place eventually. From portraits, it seems these vary in how wide they are. Captain Cook's in the 1774 portrait are quite narrow.<br />
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<br />Sarah Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02980045666044299271noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5127104774827438950.post-9708244167945903702013-05-13T10:05:00.000-04:002013-05-13T10:05:03.427-04:00IXth Riding Habit Lining and Lace<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNRu-rMNeFLwzqJGm0n7QgKmjq6B4fFqQkkZzJFkHy0hrzSEfijwHG0_6Spp6JXhtpSUNj-h-y2sYdw58JPObFSrkybp3xm6l7j6deMzlYEGI5VC88h4I5_O99ZN9_7Q-cuey5-x3HWvQ/s1600/piecedlining3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNRu-rMNeFLwzqJGm0n7QgKmjq6B4fFqQkkZzJFkHy0hrzSEfijwHG0_6Spp6JXhtpSUNj-h-y2sYdw58JPObFSrkybp3xm6l7j6deMzlYEGI5VC88h4I5_O99ZN9_7Q-cuey5-x3HWvQ/s320/piecedlining3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
I got into attaching the lining to the project, and all hell broke loose. Nothing was laying right, and I had cut the upper part of the lining almost two inches too short. [Expletive.] I frantically went through the scrap stash for the project, and hoped I had enough to cut out new lining pieces that were all one piece. I had to do some creative piecing, and long story short, I am still not happy with it. I may end up going for the two-piece lining again with a longer top piece. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSvOnE-TOWryn0CZo1X1n4P4nUQPpYYn5Mhlx07QcmmfISdOJaklg6EVae0LxUYlBIrpnGv4_kLbVHesGp2WQ0GbPeBf_2dY2lQwJf781SU6Up4qxOWTa6MzAIhpQ78m7ok1warvNXOpQ/s1600/pleatconstruction.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSvOnE-TOWryn0CZo1X1n4P4nUQPpYYn5Mhlx07QcmmfISdOJaklg6EVae0LxUYlBIrpnGv4_kLbVHesGp2WQ0GbPeBf_2dY2lQwJf781SU6Up4qxOWTa6MzAIhpQ78m7ok1warvNXOpQ/s320/pleatconstruction.jpg" width="320" /></a>Trying to do a lining for the pleated skirting is something I have never had success with. On longer things like gentlemen's frock coats, you can kind of fudge it, as the length hides the fact that the pleats aren't acting as one layer. In something shorter like this, it just looks like it rides the short bus to school. I think I may have to go back and figure out the two piece lining. It makes the pleats look really sharp. <br />
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The collar and facings just didn't lay right. I came to the
conclusion that the interfacing was just too thick. I am in the process
of removing it. Some of these issues will be resolved when the functioning buttonholes go into the collar and facings, but the lining should not be visible where the collar joins the rest of the coat. I expect removing the thick canvas interlining will take care of that issue, but We'll find out. I may have to rig up something where the lining is tacked down by hand around the collar. That may work out better. The difference between the weight of the wool and the silk is just problematic.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoWdvQdH6hSTP3GCNGsQEwBqcHRkqJwG9RGR6wQ6oTFe8h6RcCnV655V9FhyBgSHDhaszdZIxQ36UU8RxmldvJC2C3R4HS61KxucXrWJl3cSwpWMaymhjqkpS0wtzFw_koxCyF_Pw0Isg/s1600/ixthenlistedlace2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoWdvQdH6hSTP3GCNGsQEwBqcHRkqJwG9RGR6wQ6oTFe8h6RcCnV655V9FhyBgSHDhaszdZIxQ36UU8RxmldvJC2C3R4HS61KxucXrWJl3cSwpWMaymhjqkpS0wtzFw_koxCyF_Pw0Isg/s320/ixthenlistedlace2.jpg" width="240" /></a><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Adventures in Silver Mylar Lace</b></span><br />
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The IXth enlisted lace is a worsted wool with a pair of navy blue pinstripes. We have miles and miles of it stashed away, but for something like a ladies riding habit, I wanted to go with the officers lace. I took a look at a few of the rectangles of the enlisted lace to figure out how they were constructed, and determined that it was much easier to show than it was to tell. Everyone I asked had a slightly different way of doing it, including using some kind of interfacing for the construction process, or anti fray goo. I didn't want to muck up the expensive silver lace, so I did a little experimentation using it in its original form, un-backed. It frayed very badly, and looked awful. Eventually, I figured out doing a quick buttonhole stitch in silk thread on the edges of each strip saved me a lot of headaches, frustration and lace.<br />
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<br />Sarah Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02980045666044299271noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5127104774827438950.post-20481389764975867132013-04-28T11:41:00.000-04:002013-04-28T11:45:50.518-04:00IXth of Foot Riding Habit<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_-ZqKrwQtywTOz3VS2_KnKP-ZDy4JBCaSaUgHpTS3_lNPh2NakG3s8GT_I8m4OPEPo0EfMsdr__I0wkKuebTaJqWMjlSAasdB4UZE5uN2UOJHPlpffk5eifvhlK2Aqc_rmuH8ey0TPMw/s1600/reynoldsladyworsley.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_-ZqKrwQtywTOz3VS2_KnKP-ZDy4JBCaSaUgHpTS3_lNPh2NakG3s8GT_I8m4OPEPo0EfMsdr__I0wkKuebTaJqWMjlSAasdB4UZE5uN2UOJHPlpffk5eifvhlK2Aqc_rmuH8ey0TPMw/s320/reynoldsladyworsley.jpg" width="188" /></a></div>
<b>The inspiration</b>: In part, this project was inspired by a BAR event in September. BAR events do not allow women in uniform, so I guess this is my quiet, and stylish way to stick it to 'em. I envisioned a riding habit styled after the IXth of Foot uniform. I started with a portrait by Sir Joshua Reynolds of Lady Worsley, completed 1776 and currently hanging in the<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"> </span>Earl and Countess of Harewood, Harewood House, Yorkshir<span style="font-size: small;">e.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;">I also came <span style="font-size: small;">across photos of </span></span></span><span class="gD" name="Merja Palkivaara">Merja Palkivaara's riding habit on her blog, <a href="http://augustintytar.blogspot.com/2012/06/late-1770s-riding-habit-in-style-of.html">Before the Automobile</a>, and I fell in love. I had to have one, but I wanted mine to follow the regimental colors and lace pattern of the IXth of Foot, my reenacting unit. Dressing in this fashion was made popular by Georgiana Spencer, the ever fabulous Duchess of Devonshire in the 1770s.</span><br />
<span class="gD" name="Merja Palkivaara"><br /></span>
<span class="gD" name="Merja Palkivaara"><br /></span>
<span class="gD" name="Merja Palkivaara"><br /></span>
<span class="gD" name="Merja Palkivaara"><br /></span>
<span class="gD" name="Merja Palkivaara"><br /></span>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1E0HmmSY4LuxYEcd80mF_PLEnSo_VcXeY60B7_GHygjxg-4ByZE2LgsZsxJ_8OHCoP38ymKpQ-G2to7hZ1u160oAV_tJWmVbEjq6fFy9KKuNfZC9qAMKRDAS8tYCXEE0rKBoS9I5b-7U/s1600/fabric.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1E0HmmSY4LuxYEcd80mF_PLEnSo_VcXeY60B7_GHygjxg-4ByZE2LgsZsxJ_8OHCoP38ymKpQ-G2to7hZ1u160oAV_tJWmVbEjq6fFy9KKuNfZC9qAMKRDAS8tYCXEE0rKBoS9I5b-7U/s200/fabric.JPG" width="200" /></a><span class="gD" name="Merja Palkivaara"><br /></span><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3n8hy_DIkskVRItwkmpqdLptSdIW3uqwbSzX2whcoB_iLYN5DcRVvRZAXee82H5DAPvX4lRlOEBm4ihcc1Zlu-Pu9A9EJXuADEBhuu8SFHef5bvtXaoWhiDZFOGQZd6smB_r7Dndrn5o/s1600/redwool.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><span class="gD" name="Merja Palkivaara"><b>The Fabrics</b>: I started with red worsted wool from <a href="http://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/1300-5.aspx">Burnley and Trowbridge</a> that is perfect in all ways and absolutely striking. It's a twill weave, and much deeper in color than the picture lets on.</span><br />
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<span class="gD" name="Merja Palkivaara">The lining is silk taffeta in a beautiful ivory that I acquired from Osgood Textile in West Springfield. I found some lovely silk for the waistcoat there as well. The gold wool is leftover from the first run of IXth uniforms from the early 2000s.</span><br />
<span class="gD" name="Merja Palkivaara"><br /></span>
<span class="gD" name="Merja Palkivaara"><br /></span>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlEYnjkrW4Bi3bX96k6x4tvcw66uV-3rRaglAIZLNXXUMjUQp32PoJkVAWo08oFFcl-3Pf6sgdsUaDXiEbaLXlEfB3UEFXSa8xgfUy_FdpheZ7kKKGI0lYh_pbNBLgwkJ6e2tFycJr4sk/s1600/pattern.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlEYnjkrW4Bi3bX96k6x4tvcw66uV-3rRaglAIZLNXXUMjUQp32PoJkVAWo08oFFcl-3Pf6sgdsUaDXiEbaLXlEfB3UEFXSa8xgfUy_FdpheZ7kKKGI0lYh_pbNBLgwkJ6e2tFycJr4sk/s320/pattern.jpg" width="238" /></a><span class="gD" name="Merja Palkivaara"><b>The pattern</b>: Mill Farm 15: Woman's Riding Habit Jacket and Waistcoat, according to Old Time Patterns, suitable for 1760 - 1780. I modified this pattern heavily for the cut-away, and the pointed waistcoat. The waistcoat that comes with the pattern is the more traditional men's style 1770s waistcoat. I ordered size 12-14 based on my measurements, but the pattern does not differentiate between 12 and 14. It simply states 12 will fit loosely, and 14 will "just" fit. I always work from a mock up, so I wasn't super worried.</span><br />
<span class="gD" name="Merja Palkivaara"><br /></span>
<span class="gD" name="Merja Palkivaara">The pattern has a dart across the bust that I omitted in fitting to accommodate shaping for the cut-away., and my alterations left little skirting on the front, so I'm not sure I will end up being able to do a pocket. I may still try to place a faux pocket flap just for style.</span><br />
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<span class="gD" name="Merja Palkivaara"><b>Waistcoat: Take One</b>: I used two light weight cable ties to brace the back seam for lacing. When I tried it on, I decided I did not like how the the upper chest looked around the bust line, so I trimmed it down.</span><br />
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<span class="gD" name="Merja Palkivaara"><br /></span>
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<span class="gD" name="Merja Palkivaara"><b>Waistcoat: Take Two</b>: I made more of a V shape. It reduces much of the fitting issues. It will also make room for the cotton voile habit shirt and silk cravat fluffities</span><br />
<span class="gD" name="Merja Palkivaara"><br /></span>
<span class="gD" name="Merja Palkivaara"><br /></span>
<span class="gD" name="Merja Palkivaara"><br /></span>
<span class="gD" name="Merja Palkivaara"><br /></span>
<span class="gD" name="Merja Palkivaara"><br /></span>
<span class="gD" name="Merja Palkivaara"><br /></span>
<span class="gD" name="Merja Palkivaara"><br /></span>
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<span class="gD" name="Merja Palkivaara"><b>Progress</b>: Looking a bit more sharp and put together. I ended up taking the pattern mock-up in considerably at the waist to create the cut-away shape. The idea is to have it all link up with one hook and eye closure</span><br />
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<span class="gD" name="Merja Palkivaara"> I cut out the lining in two pieces - skirting, and everything above the waist. My intention is to avoid the obnoxious problems that arise when trying to line box pleats. I think I may be on to something here.</span><br />
<span class="gD" name="Merja Palkivaara"><br /></span>
<span class="gD" name="Merja Palkivaara">I treated the lining and the fashion fabric as one pieces, and stitched the pleats in place. The idea is to attach the rest of the lining over it, hiding the business part of the pleating.</span><br />
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<span class="gD" name="Merja Palkivaara"><br /></span>
<span class="gD" name="Merja Palkivaara"><b>Constructing the Facings and Collar</b>: Using my grungy IXth infantry grunt uniform as a starting point, I free-handed and eye-balled the facing shapes.</span><br />
<span class="gD" name="Merja Palkivaara"><br /></span>
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I traced the shape of the facings, and just sketched with a pencil on the yellow wool until I had an approximate. Attaching the facings will be a bit different from the construction of the actual private's uniform. I intend to make it a bit less rough around the edges, as these facings are just tacked on the top. I'm still cooking up construction ideas.</div>
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<span class="gD" name="Merja Palkivaara">Getting there. I got the cuffs, collars and facings out of the one scrap of yellow wool.</span><br />
<span class="gD" name="Merja Palkivaara"><br /></span>
<span class="gD" name="Merja Palkivaara">The plan is to follow the lace placement patterns of the IXth uniform with silver mylar lace and fancy buttons. The collar will be interlined with cotton duck cloth I had lying around. I looked for horsehair fabric online, but was not quite sure what I needed.</span><br />
<span class="gD" name="Merja Palkivaara"><br /></span>
<span class="gD" name="Merja Palkivaara">Next up are some more tweaks to the waistcoat length and the jacket flaps. I think I need to order the lace and apply it to the cuffs and facings before proceeding much further.</span>Sarah Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02980045666044299271noreply@blogger.com0