Corset Myths

What do you know about corsets in the Victorian era? How much is our perception of them shaped by the movies we watch? What is your idea of corsets and corseting in the 19th century?

Corsets - Tool of Social Control or Just Underwear?

I'm working on a research project at the museum for a potential lecture on popular misconceptions regarding corsetry in the late 19th century. It feels good to be back in the library. I have a trip to the old alma mater to do some more serious academic research in the near future.

You know the heroine in every adventure movie that takes place in the past ever? The one who 'can't breathe' when she's laced into a corset? She is lame. I have always thought such scenes were cheap ploys aimed at modern audiences designed to get them to sympathize with her and view her as "fiesty" and dynamic.

Was the corset in the Vicorian era in particular a tool for social control? Or was it just underwear? I plan to examine how it is used in popular imagery in our own time, and how it would have been viewed by everyday folks in the 19th century in addition to the criticism laid down by physicians and feminists alike.

It seems everyone has an agenda where the corset is involved. Let's see if we can find the truth somewhere in the middle.

Victorian Ballgown Bodice Trim

I added ruched self-trim to the neckline as well as bullion fringe and tassel trim to the bottom back edge. Some tassel trim around the already lace-edged sleeves makes it even more dramatic than it was before. Next up, buttons and hooks and eyes for the front.

The result of near constant daydreaming

Fabric: Eggplant Purple Silk Taffeta

Patterns:

- Underskirt: 1878 Fantail Skirt TV 225
- Overskirt: 1880 Split Pannier Overskirt TV 328
- Bodice: 1875 Ball Gown Basque Bodice TV 416

I had a sample of the most beautiful deep eggplant purple silk taffeta from Renaissance Fabrics. I have also been inspired by SG's recent foray into Victorian natural form. I have decided that I want to do a natural form ensemble for New Orleans this September. It packs up smaller for air travel than late bustle, as much as I love my lobster tail cage bustle. After much doodling and near constant daydreaming on the subject, I have decided to move forward with it.

Several rows of texturally interesting self trim, beaded tassel braid from the home dec section of the fabric store, and possibly some black venise lace, I intend to dazzle with this project. It also has the added bonus of not requiring a new corset or new underpinnings.

Snow Day Accidental Obsession

More snow, more snow and more snow resulted in this 4 gore 1880s underskirt with three layers of trim. I plan on making a matching overskirt and ballgown bodice for Baltimore this April.

Uncharted territory - 1812!

Teal 1812 Ballgown | Fall/Winter 2010

Fabric: Teal acetate taffeta embroidered with a gold vine pattern

Pattern: Draped by me.

For a fundraiser for a CT fife and drum corps this May. I started with the JP Ryan Anglaise pattern I have used so many times before as well as a peek into Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion. There were some fitting issues. The modified Anglaise pattern I used ended up a little too big over my 1770s stays. My friend, SG over at Penelope's Needle commented that the gathering at the neckline had a a bit of a list to the starboard.

With some help from SG, fitting issues were solved. I ended up gathering the sleeves in rather than pleating them. To cut down on bulk, I decided to not gather the lining. Just pleated ever so slightly at the bust.

Chinese New Year Dress

This dress narrowly avoided getting racked in the closet indefinitely. I finally finished it, tried it on with and without the corset. I came to the immediate conclusion that it needed boning in the back to avoid puckering. In went the cable ties, but it still did not fit. I am not sure how it happened, but there was a 2 inch gap in the back at the top.

I also accidentally fell in love with this black and white Chinese dress.

I was about to abandon it for good when a friend happened to be over the house. A friend who needed a dress for the very same event. Lo and behold, it fit. I'm glad the effort I put into it was not wasted, and could be appreciated at the event.