I had cut the facings of the riding habit too narrow, and I ran out of the yellow wool I had. Since the riding habit project is awaiting the arrival of a new yard of dark yellow wool before construction can continue, I turned back to the Nelson coat. I really wanted to make sure the facings were a single piece so the collar could be popped like the portrait.
I attached the white wool for the facings like a lining. The two layers of blue wool that make up the collar are treated as a single piece. The white wool is then treated essentially as a lining and folded backward. I mean to tack the actual cotton lining over all of it in the finishing process. In this instance, it seems easier to show than to tell.
I've been waiting for parts, but I think I can tack the lining in before getting lace and buttons.
The facings get folded back and buttoned in place eventually. From portraits, it seems these vary in how wide they are. Captain Cook's in the 1774 portrait are quite narrow.