Saturday, August 31, 2013

Nelson: Putting on the Lace

In order to achieve that "navy bro" popped collar, one-inch navy lace had to be attached to both sides of the lapels.  I acquired 6 yards of this lace from the lovely Angela of Burnley and Trowbridge, and she told me it had been made for a member of Britain's royal family, but had not been delivered due to some imperfections in the weave.  There were only about 12 inches that were not usable, so I worked around them.

I pinned the lace on both sides of the lapels in a kind of sandwich.  I stitched down one side, and then along the seam were the gold lace joins.

I used silk thread in a color that was very close to the color of the lace.

The next step is to stitch down the lace on the blue side of the lapel.  Stitching down the edge where the lace joins allows me to make a kind of bias tape, and fit it over the bulk of four layers of heavy coat wool.  The effect, i hope, will look polished and smart.

Next is attempt number three at lining.  Box pleats are the most hateful thing in the world.  Ian, of Royal Blue Traders concurs, and assures me this is why the open skirting on men's frock coats was developed in the 18th century.

I tried a two-piece lining like the one on my ladies riding habit, but it just didn't look right, so I ripped it out.  Round 3 I think, I will try something more like this:

 This is the Steampunk jacket I made last year and regrettably never blogged.  This way of lining pleats looks fantastic on the outside, but looks a bit messy on the inside.
 This is the inside of a knee-length sleeveless frock coat I made for a 7th sea costume.  This style only works when the garment is long enough to hide the fact that the pleats are a mirror image of each other.  I am leaning in the general direction of this style, but i think I will definitely do a a one-piece lining.